My basic self drafted block. Princess seams at front and back.
It has been altered after this blouse was finished: new neck line, lowered shoulder seam at the neck, little tweaking of the sleeve cap (move it 1 cm up the shoulder seam, widen it a bit), remove flare at bottom of the side seams. Wider cuffs, slightly longer sleeve.
My block has a seam allowance (SA) of 1,5 cm and I cut the block precisely. I then add wearing ease by placing the sewing line in the SA. For this blouse I gave the princess seams an SA of 1,25 cm. Adding a total of 2 cm wearing ease. Which is enough.
For the next blouse I will vary the SA within the princess seams: 1 cm at the apex front, 1,5 at the shoulder seams, 1,25 at the waist.
Princess seams were sewn, folded to one side, topstitched and then pinked. One sleeve cap was a felled seam following instructions from Page Coffin but that did not work very well for me. I just did the other like I did the princess seams.
No ironed interfacing, all regular cotton (old sheet) sewn into place. My sewing instructor warns me that things might bundle up when the shirt is washed. I will wash an learn.
I like how the shirt fits my body shape. Not too much dragging lines at the front. I can move my arms reasonably comfortable. I’m glad I had a professional fit me half way through. It is not something you can do by yourself, not for sleeve caps. It all comes down to half a centimetre here or there. 1.8th of an inch.
First time sewing button holes and buttons with my sewing machine. It took a while (you really have to put all the dials on the Janome 245S into the right position) but then it wens swimmingly.
Tips for sewing a button hole with the button hole foot on the Janome 245S:
- attach foot
- put stitch width on 5
- put stitch length on the button hole image. If you put it a bit to the left stitches will be closer together
- lower lever on the left side of your needle, it needs to touch the foot
- put button in foot
- the hole will start at the front, then go backwards.
- it does not like to encounter multiple layers of fabric. Sometimes you better turn the fabric and start the hole from the other side.
- do a trial hole on pieces of scrap fabric
- put the stitch dial onto “reset” in between every hole
Sewing on a button without a button foot:
- remove foot
- remove under pressure on the dog feeders
- choose zigzag stitch
- put pin in fabric
- place button on pin (need some space between button and fabric)
- put foot down
- crank needle with hand and aim for one hole
- crank further and adjust stitch width until the needle finds the second hole
- start sewing a few times
- for a 4 hole button: don’t break yarn, lift foot, turn fabric, put foot down and aim for the other holes