- http://www.fiftyways.nl/tutorial-16-mouwsplit-met-splitbies/ (video)
- http://spiegelstiksels.blogspot.com/2012/04/eerste-hulp-bij-mouwsplitstress.html (photo, tutorial. Placket in two pieces)
I wanted to sew this dress shirt like this:
but then the sleeve seam needs to be right at the side seam. Mine is rotated, because it’s a Bunka sleeve and Bunka arm hole. Pity, now I cannot finish the shoulderseam the way I wanted to.
Too much fabric on one side, not enough on the other:
A separate problem: I didn’t walk the pattern… The front panels are less wide than the back panels. The princess seams should meet each other precisely so that’s where I match them —> I should scoop out the back neck a bit and make it meet the front panel:
The collar has the upper side reinforces (Vlieseline G700, meaning woven and more firm than 701) and the under collar a bit stretched, just like mr. Page Coffin suggests. Only 4 mm does the trick. Also done on the short sides.
The part that doesn’t touch the wrists has interfacing on it. Vlieseline G700 which is a woven multi-purpose interfacing for ironing on. It’s more sturdy than what’s normally used for light cotton garments.
I paid attention to the direction of the trees, when the cuffs are folded and worn.
I attached on the WS of the sleeve, then flipped them over and pressed the SA firmly and neatly on the RS. Its edge just covered the sewing line.
Then I tacked it down temporarily by a line of the broadest stitches my machine can do:
Now it will stay put while I topstitch neatly around the cuff:
I hope the holes will disappear when the garment is washed for the first time. Inside: the topstitched line is just above the construction line. This is always a problem for me, I feel there is something to achieved here but I cannot wrap my head around it.
Figuring out the right size this one is about 6 cm too long. The shape of the ends is also very different from the usual shape. My tiny neck gets a fitted collar stand and a collar that starts right at CF. No round shape needed. I wonder how it will look once finished. How it will wear.
- spread the collar.
- shorten the sleeve split, it’s up to my elbow now
It fits very close at my bust and collar bones and shoulder seam. I cannot see if this is from the raised front neck line or perhaps the way I cut and sew this particular shirt. Will have to sew another one.
Will walk the pattern before I do so.