altering the toile and the pattern

Today I am altering the toile. I measured two dresses that fit me just fine. I put them on the toile to show you how much difference there is in size:


both dresses have a waist of about 80 cm (10 cm ease on my waits of about 70) and hips at about 100cm
I’m still a bit peeved. I could just as well have taken these dresses and copied their panels and used them as a template.

The toile made from Butterick 5603 size 16 (hips 14) has a waist of 90 cm and hips starting at 107cm

what I want:
– reduce waist to 80 centimeters in the round.
– reduce hips to 100 centimeters in the round.
– lower the point of flaring, I don’t need it that high up.
– reduce the overall flare, I don’t need that much especially with cotton (light sheer fabric would love that much flare)
– reduce the flare in the centre front and centre back panel of the skirt, it makes for pleats in various dresses I saw on the internet, including the dress on the Butterick site.
– fit the bodice on the skirt: keep bust at current circumference. Make sure the darts and seams align properly. Probably have to lengthen the bust dart somewhat to account for smaller empire waist and meet it properly. Figure this out.

what I already did:
– took the flare out of centre front and centre back panel of the skirt. They are now rectangles with a 17 cm width, measured without seam allowance. I reduced the width of the centre back by two centimeters.
– reduced the flare of the side panels. I sewed it and then drew a quick line with pencil to show you better:
you (can barely) see the pencil line on the panel on the right. I have not cut away the redundant fabric yet.
On the middle/left you see the now rectangular centre front panel.

I wonder what to do now. The skirt fits reasonably now. The question is now how to make the top fit the skirt. There are lines and seams to be considered. I am not wild about the panels and how wide they sit on the shoulders. It would be easier to have a smaller bodice to start with and introduce bust darts into that one than trying to reduce a bodice overall.
I may switch over to another version of the dress, view A, which has a gathered bust panel.

here’s a view of how the toile sat before I altered the skirt:
meh… the line under the bust doesn’t touch the skin of my tummy by 10 centimeters. Making me look fatter than I need to look. I want a (semi)fitted dress. Not a sack.
Also, I think the shoulders may be too wide. Or perhaps they balance my bust in the total silhouette? I don’t know. The upper bust may be a size too large. Or two. I can fit another pair of boobs on top of mine… I’ll look at some more examples of the dress online.
Something nééds to be done about the execution of those bustdarts though. They end in unfortunate placed pointy points. I have seen others have this problem too. I think it’s ridiculous. Bust darts should nót end at the apex nor should they suggest they do.

I’ll now return to the sewing room to look and ponder and look some more. (I’ll probably cut out the bodice for view A….just in case….)(just for study purposes, you understand)(I know you do)(did I tell you I bought another sheet at the thriftstore? It has flowers on it. It is meant for a usable practice dress in view A.)(it is already laundred)

isn’t it nice?

I decided to persevere with view C for now. The shoulders will be a bit smaller because the toile shows the raw seams, including seam allowance. And I want this view in the pink fabric from an earlier post.


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