I’d like to show you the difference between the pattern pieces of Butterick 5603 and the pieces that I came up with. Here’s the back panel of the top. Butterick 5603 is lying on top of my carton block, they all include seam allowances:
My block has a much higher neck and quite different sizing. On the lower end it is a bit longer and more curved than the original but it has the width of size 14 instead of 16. The dart has been moved and has been elongated and widened.
The front panel of the top has been altered in a similar fashion: higher neck, a little bit longer and with a much broader bust dart. I think the cat ate the picture that compared the original to my draft but here’s the picture of the muslin again:
You see which lines I intend to follow: less width in the side seam, more curve and deeper line at the bottom and a ridiculous wide bust dart. Oh well, if it works it works.
And here’s my drafted side panel of the back of the skirt, under and on top of the Butterick pattern piece 12:
Major difference! There’s a dart now there and the flare at the side of the centre back panel has gone. It even grows more narrow as it goes down, following the curve of my lower back. The width at the top seems the same but there’s a dart now there so it is not.
At the waist line, which sits right under the bust, the back of the dress is now 42 cm wide (without seam allowance). The front is 45 cm wide.
42 cm = 16.5 inch and 45 cm = 17.7 inch.
I have left the crudely cut pink flowery fabric in the city house. I am now in the cabin in the woods. I brought the panels and some tracing paper. And the pressing tools. Let’s see if I can find some fabric here to play with. There are two fabric scissors here and I hope they are good.
For the cutting problems I have found these solutions:
- get a pair of micro whatsyamacallit scissors. They stay sharp. You can even cut silk easily. That’s convenient! Because I have silk… (in the city)
- trace the pattern -without the seam allowance- with chalk or carbon paper unto your fabric. Cut it with seam allowance, using a very fine tool for determining exact seam allowances
- procure a cutting mat and rotary blade.
- sharpen the scissors you have (at 14$ or 10euro a piece?! I don’t think so.)
I’m contemplating which solution to choose and apply to the pink flowery cotton. I will see it again in a week or two. In the mean time I hope to find some cheap fabric in one of the boxes in the cabin and play some more with the blocks. A wearable practice dress is next I think. I have not sewed with lining yet.
Oh! I did bring the flowery sheet and the pattern pieces for view A from B5603! That sheet cuts easily, even with dull scissors. So that will be next I think. Do that other view, give it lining, get a dress.
But in a couple of days because first I have to run around here and do Important Things I Should Have Done Ages Ago.
And I have to attack the weeds in the forest, there’s only a couple of days left before I will have lost the battle for this year and nettle, pispotje, bramble and other various culprits will overrun everything. As they have done every previous year. Still, I have hope. Every year.