Sewing the Dress: on to the bodice

I checked out the skirt and it lines up with the bodice bust darts acceptable. Certainly for a first dress!
The French seams look great!
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I haven’t pressed them yet. Neither did I do the darts yet. I plan to use them to fine tune the ease.

I sewed the side seams of the skirt. Stopping halfway on one side to allow for the zipper. This presents with an interesting problem further along the line: how attach a zipper when votre seam est Francais??
I’ll figure that one out once it’s zipper time…

for now: the bodice.
I pressed the lower seam of the lining. Put the right side together and seamed the neckline and the arm holes, keeping track of the 1,5cm seam allowance along the way. Only on the fashion fabric though. The lining is so thin and flimsy than I cut it roughly.
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Now I’m here to remember what ‘understitching’ is.
I think it’s when you fold over the stitching -after you’ve trimmed and notched the edges to be enclosed- and then you sew it a bit from the right side but so that the lining doesn’t show. Me, I would use my darning tool to make that crisp fold again but I would make it ‘askew’ so that the fashion fabric is a bit higher than the lining fabric.
I believe I saw an example of understitching in the dress my mother made me:

you see some at the arm hole: the fashion fabric extends beyond the lining, when looking from the wrong side. And some that could be improved in the front: the lining is visible from the right side.

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