Sewing the Dress: Understitching

well BOOh!

the instructions on Butterick 5603 could have been clearer. It states: stitch neck line. Stitch armhole. UNDERSTITCH as much as possible.

I read this as steps:

  1. stitch neck line
  2. stitch arm hole
  3. do your stinking best at UNDERSTITCHING

now I find out you’re supposed to do understitching right after step 1. too. It is an addendum to a stitched line.

this video explains that you stitch fabric and lining together. Stop. Open up the seam and stitch the lining onto the raw edges, stitching close to the fold/ seam. This stitching will not be visible from the fashion fabric side of the garment.

It is to prevent the lining from rolling upwards and taking a peek into the great wide world.

hmf! Clearly Butterick is not meant for a beginner…. or I am too dumb today.

luckily I have a darning tool today…

btw, “grumpy girl” in the picture is never as grumpy as seen here. Steve Ford from the UK knows this very well and took the picture.

UPDATE. so the real instructions, for people who like lists and bullitpoints are:

1. stitch one seam

2. trim the raw edge and clip notches if it’s a curved seam

3. open seam, fold edges to one side (press if you want to)

4. sew the lining onto the edges, close to the seam from step 1. Leave the right side fashion fabric alone. No stitching there.


as I prefer to be lazy instead of tired I’m first trying to understitch without taking apart the seams. I remember seeing this on the internet….

it can be done, with a bit of fudging and folding. But now I am confused as to how far away from the seam I have to stitch. Close by? further away? that’s why I am online again.

ah, a good tutorial over at Diana’s Sewing Lessons! And at Sewaholic.

“close to the seam” it is. Also good for facings (“beleg” in Dutch)


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