Sewing the Dress

today is Sewing the Dress day.
I just finished that other seam on the shoulder of the lining. I thínk it’s a flat fell seam.

Now I am online again to decide finally on the treatment of the seams of the skirt as that will not be lined.

Sewing is about attaching two pieces of fabric to each other. Well, that’s do-able. But somehow you have to make sure the raw sides of the fabric don’t fray or ravel. You have to enclose them. There are numerous ways of doing that…

When I have chosen the way I will enclose my fraying ends I will start with the skirt panels. I want the front panel to line up with the bustdarts so I will sew the skirt panels first (without the darts) and make sure some of the lines match. Then I will use the side seams and the placements of the darts to line perfectly.

ps. one of the wonders of seam treatment is that ironing pressing is a viable option. You press a part in place and you could be done! If you have a way of preventing raveling (by zig zagging along the edge or serging it or capturing it in bias band) you make the process into two steps:

  1. sew two pieces together
  2. prevent fraying

no folding necessary. Just press it into place and you’re done.

I don’t have a zig zag stitch on my machine, I don’t have a serger and I don’t have (the lust for) bias band. So I’ll have to do some folding I guess. Or use pinking shears

(I’m afraid to. This cannot work. Making little cuts in fabric cannot prevent fraying! It is against common sense)

(but they’re orange, that gives some confidence. If not cheer. Orange scissors wouldn’t lie!)

ps.2

ooh, looky here a .pdf with seam treatments from medieval times. People back then had the seam problems: to fold or not to fold?

seams in history1

copyright by The New Varangian Guard Inc. (NVG Inc) of Australia, an historical re-enactment organisation. Excellent site and .pdf.

ps.3

here’s a good tutorial on French seams on Craftsy.

would it be ‘wrong’ to use French seams on plain cotton fabric? I really like it and my vintage foot treadle machine would be good with it.

would it make it more difficult for me to line up the panels?

PS. 4

I should chose and get sewing instead of surfing!

ps 5.

some thoughts on using French seams from The Little Tailoress:

“Maybe to be on the safe side you could do a sample seam on a scrap of the fabric and just assess whether you think the seam is coming up particularly bulky.
Also- French seams are best avoided in particularly curved seams but the gentle curve of a skirt is fine.”

a try-out on a piece of scrap fabric, I could have thought of that myself!

there’s my reason to go to my sewing machine NOW 🙂

while there, treadling away, I’ll think about how curvy my seams are.

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