I measured me, my sloper, the pattern V8648 without seam allowance and took note of Vogue pattern sizes, the amount of wearing ease they add and the circumferences noted in the pattern pieces of V8648.
Quite a difference between the measurements Vogue follows for their size 12 and the numbers they state on the pattern. Here’s where the 3″ to 4″ wearing ease they add to all their “fitted” patterns comes into play.
But I also noted a difference between the measurements they state on the pattern pieces and the measurements that I found by measuring the actual paper pieces.
getting a head ache from all this talk about ease?
perhaps your gnome hat is too tight!
I will be following the pattern pieces but adjusting to my own measurements. Because the pattern already includes a 1,5 cm seam allowance I can grade up easily while for the hip I can keep it down. Now I have to decide how much wearing ease I prefer. I know from previous experience that the 4″ the big pattern compagnies add is way too much for me.
I may make a muslin without any ease and decide while I fit how much I want.
NB. I need to correct in height, I only need 36,5 cm from the back neck to the waist. The pattern is much longer.
let me think on it for a bit
UPDATE: I remembered this post where I gathered recommended ease, at the bottom of that post. Based on that information I will sew a muslin with
bust 97 cm + 7,5 cm ease (2.5″)
waist 76 cm + 2,5 cm ease (1″)
hip 96 cm + 5 cm ease (2″)
Now I’ll Just grade the vogue pattern to these sizes. I’ll take size 12 as a guideline, using the seam allowance to find the right line. This will become my stitch line. Then cut generously. Stitch stitchline for visibility. Sew together muslin.