A skirt with a waist band, fitting darts, silk interlining and a knotted pocket:
The darts are finished before the waist band is put over them. Zipper goes all the way to the top. Waist band is sturdy and has well enough topstitching. It also captures both the skirt and the silk on the inside.
The pocket has reinforcement in the back, so the pocket will not depend on a single layer of fabric to hang onto the skirt.
Nice pocket, eh? I placed it carefully in a circle before cutting it ánd before sewing it in its place. It’s an interpretation of the Knotted Pocket by LauraSaurus over at Craftster.com.
Next picture: details at the side seam. Zipper all the way to the top. I inserted it in the side seam first, leaving the top loose. Then inserted darts. Then determined the width of the waistline, cut the waist band to size and inserted it, catching the top of the zipper as I did so.
Next, a look at the other side seam and me being a bit at a loss. On the other side, the inside, the seam of the waist band lines up with the skirt seam perfectly. But on the outside it does not.
This may have to do with the fact that I just took the already finished edge of the pillow case and cut it to size. It may not have been cut straight on the grain when it was produced and stretching more on one side than on the other. It matched when I pinned it only during sewing it shifted.
If I were to do this again I would sew from this side seam towards the zipper. Cut thread. Start at this side seam again to work to the other zipper end.
I did line up the pattern nicely though, when I attached the left side of the waist band to the right side (before sewing it to the skirt).
View of the inside of the zipper. The interlining is tucked under there and secured.
Oops, the inside of the waistband is not caught everywhere by the topstitching I did from the outside. That explains why the band flips up a bit, near the zipper’s top.
Next, the hem. There are little vents between the front and the back panels, at the side seams. As this is the selvedge edge of the silk no other finishing was required, I only needed it to fold up a little so it would not show. The green fabric has just been folded once too. As the wrong sides are together, I’m hoping this is all the finishing that’s needed.
A very nice, light summer skirt. The silk is lovely to wear! The vintage fabric I like a lot. Green and soft. I’m very pleased.
The pink practice skirt came before the green skirt. In it I learned about waist band and darts and side seam pockets and sequence of steps.
It is not a good idea to sew a pocket just onto the fashion fabric, it would tear too much at it. As I needed to add a pocket in a fortified place I chose to attach it to the waist band. Not very elegant but all I need is a little pocket to put my ear plugs and magic pills (hydro cortisone). Because I’ve been wearing them in my bra up until now and we can all agree how elegant it is to have a woman dive into her bra and eat something she finds in there. Or put it in her ears…
Nice side seam.
Here I learned that darts should stop sloping once they hit the waist band area. Especially if you are just going to fold over twice the top of your skirt to make a waist band. Meh. I like the green one much better.
Another illustration of how darts interact with the waist band and how you have to make do when the zipper is already in but the waist band sits on top of it and will not fold down quite as low as you planned.
A bit of a struggle with the rolled hem. Suddenly my sewing foot didn’t work properly. It did at the top, near the zipper, and I got quite excited. But at the hem the needle would stitch besides the silk.
In the end I just rolled it by hand and threw it under the machine. This is the only time anybody sees that seam up close:
More detailed view:
Problem with my treadle sewing machine: the needle doesn’t line up with the hole in the foot. This is a foot for rolling a hem. Is there a way to position the needle more to the left? Perhaps insert a little something it its holder, to bulk it up?