FBA on Deer & Doe’s Bleuet Dress

I got the marvellous pattern Bleuet Dress by French independent pattern maker Deer&Doe.
For me it was in need of a full bust adjustment, after I determined that size 40 would sit around my shoulders perfectly.

Bleuet Dress comes in a neat package with the pattern pieces on nice sturdy paper. I was bold and did the FBA right on the paper, thereby destroying the original.

I needed to do a few things:

  1. widen the waist to size 42
  2. slim down the hip to size 40 or even less
  3. shorten the body by 2 cm
  4. lengthen the skirt
  5. enlarge the breast

The first 3 I could do on my own. It all comes down to choosing which cutting line to follow and transit souple between the one for size 40 and for size 42. The shortening is done at the waistline, through all pattern pieces.

After cutting I started by noting the sewing line into the pattern. It has an 1,5 cm seam allowance worked into it and some of it was now altered because my outer lines did no longer follow one size consistently.
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe
After this I shortened the waist.

For the Full Bust Adjustment I first used this tutorial: http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/07/how-to-make-a-full-bust-adjustment/ But I couldn’t get it to work.
I didn’t succeed with this tutorial because I wasn’t able to tell which details were important and which not. For example it wasn’t clear where in the sideseam the cutting line should start and whether it should be at an angle. I just squared it of the side line but that didn’t work.
I ended up with non functional hinges and paper that didn’t want to lie flat:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe
I tried a bunch of things but it just didn’t work.

Having cut up some of the paper I started to worry but the next tutorial I tried had a nice mix of logic and bravery so I undid what I had done and taped everything back together and just kept on taping after that.

Taped everything back the way it was:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

The second tutorial was http://www.idlefancy.com/2014/01/sewing-curve-fba-for-princess-seams.html and this one worked very well for me.

It still looked awfull halfway through:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe
but at least the tutorial says it’s supposed to do so. And to keep confidence and to just “tape all that crazyness down”. So that’s what I did:

FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

and then the tutorial instructs you to do some crazy thing and clearly states it will be counterintuïtive. Just “draw your own line, because you’re awesome like that”. And I am because look what happened!
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe
Voilá, a FBA.

Only needs a new line at the sideseam from the armhole to the waist, to compensate for the width added to the sideseam.

There. Done.
A bit messy but it’s all there and the paper lies flat:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

Remember to add the added length to the front side piece too and FINI.
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

Here the pieces are all together. Size 40 with size 42 waist, a shortened body and a FBA:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

I later made a try out dress and found I needed to round off the apex a bit more. Along the line you can already see in the pattern.
The height of the apex and the width of the pattern pieces is marvellous!

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