made from curtain fabric…
I put the slab of fabric around me and bend ungracefully to the ground. This told me the amount of fabric I need around my hips, it is a width 104 cm (without seam allowances). They height I determined by eye.
I cut the fabric as a rectangle, including some extra fabric at the right for a vent:
Then I looked at putting in the vent, via this tutorial. But I used the selvedge edge so I did it easier.
I put in the zipper. It was a blind zipper but I put it in as if it was a regular one.
I put it in so its top is higher than the top of my fabric. The waist band will come on top of the fabric and the zipper will use the full height of the waist band.
First I sewed shut the seam, then sewed the zipper onto it and then topstitched it. Then I ripped the seam.
Then I looked at putting in a pocket, in the right “side seam”. It’s not really a side seam, it doesn’t run all the way to the hem, it’s just a slit from waist to hip, shaping the top of the skirt.
Before sewing the “side seam” and the pocket, I marked how much width had to be taken in, a good 5 cm at each side seam (twice, so 10 cm per seam).
A couple of minor darts in the front and the back.
I sewed them all in, fixing the pocket in there too.
Tried it on. It’s circumference at the top is 84 cm. This sits not well in my waist but sits beautiful a bit lower. That’s were I’ll put it then.
The waist band will make up the difference up to the waist line.
For this I needed a waist band of 6 cm high (5 cm to make up the difference + 1 cm to catch the top of the skirt)
I had to be 84 cm circ. at the bottom and 74 at the top (my waist = 73,5 cm)
I cut out a rectangle of 80 x 24 cm. That’s 74 + seam allowance. 24 = 6 cm folded over twice.
I sewed it in and realized my mistake. 80 cm accounts for the circumference at the top but not the bottom. I had some skirt left after I’d run the length of the waist band…
I ripped it free and attached a strip to the waist band to make it longer.
But now the top was too long. This band had to be trapezoid in shape: a rectangle with smaller width at the top then at the bottom.
Then I did a nasty hack: make some cuts in the folded band and make those cuts into trapezoids. Fold it open, sew together, fold back again, stomp on it to make it less bulky.
This is how a waist band looks that’s longer at the bottom then at the top. I sewed it to the skirt. Per miracle one of the corners sat at CF. Thank you sewing god mother.
It looks like something that’s better called “a design feature” than “a nasty hack”. But now I know: I like my waistbands broad. 6 cm is fine. And it has to be 84 cm at the bottom and 74 at the top.
Next time I’ll cut out a curved waist band, I think that would be wise.