front pleat top

I’m inspired by this top:

and this book:

Buit Countryfair 2015

The book promotes quality fabrics and loose fitted garments.
The top Laricci Smunch sewed is pattern Burda 17/2012 #103 in a less drapey fabric than the pattern example.

I want a top that pleats as nonchalant as hers. That works with my broad shoulders and small hips. With pockets.
The book convinces me to go for a loose garment and to use some of the linens I’ve been hoarding. Reading some more about linen I found the site Fabrics-Store.com with some really encouraging tutorials. They say: just go for it! Just enjoy your linen!

Since I’m working without a pattern I’m making a muslin first, to work things out. I copied more or less the back of a longsleeve that fits comfortably.
I took that as a template for the front panel but I only used the bottom. For the top part I swiveled the piece to the right and the left so I would get enough ease in the middle for the pleat but still have matching side seams. I have not decided how I’ll do the neck.

Because the original Burda pattern has a non-desirable look in light fabrics (so frumpy!) I want to stiffen up my fabric. I cut an underlining. But I’m not sure yet how this will help in the middle of the front panel. Should I use fusing? Should I fuse the underlining to the shell fabric? Perhaps with little quilt tacks. I’ve got no idea yet.

WHAT I DID SO FAR.
Take off shirt and lie it on the fabric:
Front pleat top

Cut around it. One rough outline of a back panel:
Front pleat top

Match up the sides:
Front pleat top

For the front panel: cut the bottom the same but for the top part swivel it to the left: (picture is flipped horizontally)
Front pleat top

And swivel to the right:
Front pleat top

Match up the sides.
Now I have one back panel and one front panel:
Front pleat top

I also cut some underlining following the top part of these pieces. Now I’ll have a little cup of tea and a little think about how to proceed.

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