Well fitting sleeves that allow for movement: angle of set in.

I cut the self drafted sleeves and put them into the bodice.
Looks alright….ish.
sleeve sleevecap fit shirt arm hole
We’re only looking at the upper part: shoulders and sleeve cap.
Shoulder seam length seems ok. (the neck line still has 2 cm seam allowance so looks too narrow)
Angle of armhole is ok. Armhole self is pretty high and snug to the body. Works well.
There are folds in the sleeve but that’s what you get when you want to be able to move an arm.

I made an annoying sewing mistake at the back seam, the seam is puckered. But fit is ok, even when moving arm forward.

sleeve sleevecap fit shirt arm hole
sleeve sleevecap fit shirt arm hole

Sleeve will have to come out and be redone because of sewing mistake. Might as well because there are two things that need to be altered on the sleeve pattern.
1. sleeves are too short, my wrists are bare. What was I thinking? Probably: “Design over comfort!” Such a fool.
2. I keep being bugged by how much more ease of movement the rectangle sleeve gives over this shaped sleeve.

I want a better range of motion. Just like a tailored men’s dress shirt provides. I’m not wearing tailored shirts to look pretty, I’m wearing tailored shirts to look pretty when reaching for something or picking something up.

So I did some reading on tailors’ fora and came away with two pearls of wisdom.
One is from Dutch master tailor Ruben Bakker:

One thing of note with shirts is that they are in effect “drapey” garments, and should be treated as such. It is first of all a leisure garment and not a body glove. It also has less seams than a coat, and shirting cloth cannot be worked with the iron at all. Some drape thus will occur, and it is my job to make that drape be functional rather than result from fitting issues.source.

Second is this series of photo’s by deadAngle on Styleforum.net showing the differences in angle with which a sleeve can be attached to the arm hole:

Screen Shot 2016-04-15 at 12.23.26

The more square to the body, the better range of motion that’s allowed.
The more angular, the more stylish when worn. (The third picture has two seams in each arm pit, providing a funnel from body to sleeve. Called “bi-swing”and “it only works on heavier fabrics and narrow cuts”. Interesting.)

I’m going to incorporate these two points of view into my shirt. Back to the drawing board. Which is my muslin:
sleeve sleevecap fit shirt arm hole
The difference in angle of my own sleeve (right) and the piece of rectangular cloth sleeve (left).

What if I was to swivel my sleeve until it too was at a right angle? How much would it alter the sleeve cap?

Here we go:
sleeve sleevecap fit shirt arm hole

I put a piece of cloth in the gap. Made some markings so I could always put it back onto the sleeve the way it was laid down.
This much needs to be added to the front part of the sleeve cap if I want my sleeve to sit at a 90 degrees angle:
sleeve sleevecap fit shirt arm hole

Repeat for the back. Now rip the sleeve seam open. I want to see what shape the sleeve cap has.

sleeve sleevecap fit shirt arm hole

Mickey Mouse ears.

What a weird shape!
It’s almost the opposite of a normal sleeve block, with rounded edges that go down, vertical, at the outer edges. Every sleeve block ever ends in horizontal lines that connect near the side seam of the bodice.

An indentation at the highest point…

I imagine that will give a lot of bulk at the front (armpit). Perhaps less at the back though. And I wonder what such a sleeve (cap) will do for the silhouette when the arm is hanging resting. Will it have a “shark tail” at the top of the biceps just like the rectangular sleeve does? Probably.

Where am I going with this? It would make sense to cut a sleeve from this template. Put it in the bodice with its narrow arm hole. See how it fits.

But it would be ludicrous also. So different from every sleeve I ever saw!

I do have an old sheet though…


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