Drafting trousers: fitting the block

So I have this block for trousers from my drafting lessons. Now it’s time to make a pattern out of it. We were theoretically shown how to do so in a short afternoon. Now it’s time for a tactile experience.

It’s going to be trousers with a zip (fly), with straight legs that are a bit roomy, with a waist band and with pockets. Side seams will be felled or French.

First I need to decide whether to make the toile from the pattern or from the block. The block actually needs another fit to determine if its good and finished. I’m looking for a way to combine both since fit concerns are only around the waist and the hips and those are not altered when I change the block into the pattern.

I’ll do a quick block toile first so I can draft the waist band and pockets precise and for real when I do the pattern.

  1. press cloth. Fold double. Make sure your table has a protecting layer underneath so you won’t leave marker ink on your table.
  2. place block on cloth and prick pinholes in the major points. Touch each hole with a felt tip pen, marking the cloth underneath. Permanent marker.
  3. pin cloth together. Then take paper block away, checking all points got marked.
  4. connect the dots, drawing in the seamlines, grain, darts, notches and guidance lines. I use ball point for this.
  5. pin cloth together within the pattern. Touch all marking dots with the permanent marker again. Undo some pin at the outer part and check whether the second layer of fabric received all the markings.
  6. cut out roughly the shape, including a seam allowance. I did about an inch.
  7. turn over and draw the lines on the second piece of fabric, connecting the dots.
  8. now pin the right seams together. I sewed CB first, since that’s already pinned together.
  9. sew the seams.
  10. fit

conclusing fitting the block: it’s ok. It needs a bit of a pull up at the front to make the side seams run vertical. CB needs a little tuck in at the waist, I do have a bit of a swayed back. 1,5 cm on both sides of the seam, to nothing at 4,5 cm from the top edge. Changing the block.

Legs are too tight for regular trousers. They need more room around the knee and lower part of the upper leg. Below the knee it doesn’t need additional width. I’m not changing the block but will keep this in mind whenever I draft a pattern.

The strangest thing: the sideseam of the front parts is more curved than that of the back parts. But they do fit together because they have the same length. And it sits ok in this toile. Something to show my teacher. They should look more similar, I’d think.

 

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