sewing the Hoezee skirt

I showed my orange practise trousers to my teacher and I learned:

  • how many parts there ought to be to a zip fly
  • that indeed the side seam of the front panel can be more curved than that of the back panel but not as much as I had
  • that we had to take the waist in quite a bit
  • that I prefer loose pant legs. Even with stretchy fabrics I don’t like the restriction over my upper legs.
  • how to fold away any remaining darts at the front.

These adjustments I put into my pattern and some into my block. Then I made it into a skirt pattern, with fly zip and jeans pockets. I’m now sewing this so I have a skirt to wear (I desperately need a practical skirt, made from canvas) and to practise sewing fly zip and pockets.
With this skirt I can see if the pattern is truly ok now. If it is I can use it to sew linnen trousers, from the fabric I bought at the Stoffenspektakel. The Summer trousers I’ve been longing for.

sewing steps:

  1. trueing and walking the paper pattern: making sure all seams attach nicely to each other and have the same length. Indicating notches at convenient places such as hip line, seat line, CF, CB etc.
  2. pressing the fabric and then cutting. I’m doing 1,5 cm seam allowance. Making sure there are no big dots or spots on inconvenient places such as the crotch. Pocket insides are cut from thinner cotton. No interfacing for the bands, this is sturdy canvas, I think it will be enough on its own. Besides I’m done with fusible interfacing, I melt it all the time and I don’t feel like sewing in interfacing for this project. The waist band will get a stay band sewn into it, to prevent stretching.

These are the pieces I have now:

pattern pieces skirt with pockets and fly zip

I have the feeling there’re not enough pieces here…

Let’s see: back panel, front panel right, front panel left, yoke, waist band front left, waist band front right, waist band back twice, second waist band front left, second waist band front right, stay tape for the waist band, hook and eye closure for the band, two pocket visible parts, two zip fly parts, one zip guard, one zip, pocket inside left and right.

There needs to be two more pocket insides and perhaps another zip guard.

3. staystitching curved bits I want to keep in shape while I handle them: waist band, yoke, pocket curves. (it feels kind of ridiculous to do this, to spend the time and the thread. I’m still doing it though, because I’m too much of a beginner to know what’s important and what not.)


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