Finished: Hoezee skirt.

self drafted pattern, based on a trousers block I learned to draw at Modevakschool Internationaal in Schijndel.

hoezee skirt finished self drafted pattern fly zip yoke cabvashoezee skirt finished self drafted pattern fly zip yoke cabvashoezee skirt finished self drafted pattern fly zip yoke cabvashoezee skirt finished self drafted pattern fly zip yoke cabvas

With the yoke at the back I managed to fold away all waist darts (and they were long! Because of skinny ass and sway back). The back panel is one piece, cut on the fold, which works well for such a bold printed fabric. The yoke and front panels look a bit weird, with the CF seam and the print repeat..
Sewing Hoezee skirt

I don’t know how it happened but the skirt is too wide. The trousers weren’t. Even though I cut precise and I fitted it before sewing I must have done something wrong. It’s not very flattering. But it does sit very comfortable and is a good skirt for daily use.
hoezee skirt finished self drafted pattern fly zip yoke cabvas

I prefer my skirt silhouettes more figure hugging:
hoezee skirt finished self drafted pattern fly zip yoke cabvashoezee skirt finished self drafted pattern fly zip yoke cabvas
I can wear this silhouette because I’ve got no hips nor upper legs. It’s not something to be desired particularly, it’s just the way I’m shaped and you have to work with what you’ve got. Skirt will need to have a vent in the back though.

Sewing Hoezee skirtSewing Hoezee skirt>

I indeed missed two pattern pieces: the upper inside of the pocket and another zip part.

Sewing Hoezee skirtSewing Hoezee skirt
I fumbled the zip until it looked like it does on commercial jeans we’ve got in the closet. There was a lot of crotch inspection last week…
Sewing Hoezee skirt
Fly zip, I’m not a big fan. Although I see how all seams are reinforced and how functional that is. Also the zip guard prevents the cold zipper from touching your skin and that’s a pre in any garment.
However, the position of CF and zipper threw me off completely and I still don’t have a clear idea of what goes where and in which sequence.

Oh, well. Next time I’m looking into lapped zippers as I have a feeling that’s more my cup of tea. A lapped zipper with a zip guard if need be.

Sewing Hoezee skirt
I caught the edge of the pocket in the zipper seam allowance, as instructed by my teacher. I had to cut off a large part of the pocket to make that happen. This shows me that when positioning the pocket parts, especially the little piece that’s still in shell fabric, it’s very important to use the paper pattern as a template. You want the top part, which attached to the waist band, to be very accurate positioned:

Sewing Hoezee skirt

Topstitching the left front panel, securing the zip piece. Not going all the way to CF though:
Sewing Hoezee skirtSewing Hoezee skirt
Then topstitch from the right side, this time catching the zipper guard at the back.

The waist band is so much more shaped than any of my bands before! Still it should be more narrow in my waist.
Sewing Hoezee skirtSewing Hoezee skirt
I put in a non stretching piece of band, because parts are on the bias now, with all that curving.

After finishing the waist band it became clear that the yoke from the pattern was way too high (sway back!) I had to unpick its seam with the waist band. Putting it back together was not that easy because now I had to secure it with one seam instead of sewing it into place from the inside, fold over, topstitch.
Sewing Hoezee skirt
I stitched it from the inside, to make sure I caught everything there, but used a purple thread that would stand out on the outside. With everything in place I could sew The One Line from the outside, being assured I would catch all the layers and all the parts.
Afterwards it was time to unpick the purple (and the staystitching that was visible here and there).

All seams were pinked and stitched twice (once when folded down). That’s one thing about jeans and canvas fabric: you want your seams to be sturdy.

In the waist band I put a hook and eye and the shop only had these ugly ones. That’s ok, by this time I was so done with this skirt I just wanted it finished.
I learned that I should draft the waist band longer at the right top. Luckily I had used the selvedge for this part and could work it right up to the very edge.
I’ve since changed the pattern.


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