Bunka is a way of pattern drafting in Japan. They use a different body shape and it fits my body way better than the traditional Western way of pattern drafting. The arm hole makes more sense, as The Fashion Incubator shows here .
With help of some internet research I drew a Bunka block for my arm hole and a Bunka sleeve. I experimented a bit and this is the sleeve I ended up with, put in my damselfly blouse.
I want a sleeve I can move in. Ooh, just found this very interesting blog post: http://overflowingstash.com/2014/07/07/fitted-sleeve-sloper-part-2-built-in-gusset/
I have arrived at the same sleeve a flamenco dancer uses: http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/2010/12/how-to-sew-sleeves-that-let-you-move/
It is placed at a right angle from the bodice, not at a 45 degrees angle. It has a lower shoulder cap, just like men dress shirts have. It can have a gusset at the arm pit for extra wearing ease. Having the arm hole fit close to the body.
The rest of the blouse fits well too. Need a bit more concentration when sewing the princess lines though. Back and front have some folds.
Bunka form has an extra princess seam in the front, this fits my curves even better. I wonder if I can incorporate where it hits the arm hole into the front line of the arm hole. Pretty much like this gent’s shirt looks.
I still have a steep bend in the arm hole, due to a secondary bust dart most people with small frames and large bust need there.
Otherwise: nice fit. I can move, I can breathe. Better collar too.