weird wool wednesday: February colours

My subconscious is telling me something…

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blouses instead of gilet

I am halfway a fancy gillette (vest in English, I guess) for a court case at the end of February.

But I just couldn’t find the motivation. So I stoppen it and started some friendly shirts instead. My self drafted pattern for a fitted dress shirt with French cuffs can be sewn without fitting now. So cut and sew! đź‘Ť

And then I found a sale of Amy Butler design. So more shirts to come!

finished: two trial canvas dresses with continuous hem

handsewn canvas dress cabin pippi longstocking langkous pockets sewing

You remember I was pondering how to convert my dress shirt pattern pieces to a dress pattern that has one continuous hem so I could use fabric that has cars riding along the hem:
naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk

I finished it at home.

I added a facing to the neckline and arm holes. Tape pattern pieces together (mind the SA), trace and cut:
canvas proefjurk beleg vierkante halscanvas proefjurk beleg vierkante hals

Square neckline: reduce stitch length in the corners and back stitch a bit:
afwerking vierkante hals beleg canvas jurk vooral persen

Cut to the corner. Press. Clip where necessary. Understitch.
afwerking vierkante hals beleg canvas jurk vooral persen
afwerking vierkante hals beleg canvas jurk vooral persen
Wonderful!

Somehow the pocket ended up too wide compared to the sideseam pattern pieces. We fixed it by making a design feature out of it. I love these pockets! The fold adds shape to the skirt.

My teacher took care to let all the vertical sewing lines end at the same place but I was not so careful with sewing so they are a bit off here and there.

She taught me how to put in a hand picked zipper. The SA at CB is 1,5 cm. Place zipper at 3 mm from the edge (because a zipper is 1,2 cm wide).

The hem was done with the hem stitch, on the machine.

I finished it and wore it again and again and forgot to take a picture. But here’s a picture of its sibling that I sewed the following week a.k.a. last Thursday:
handsewn dress sewing self drafted pattern bunka dressform continuous hem
This is my Butterfly Dress. It’s the same fabric as the car fabric: a canvas with a design called “Admiral” in colourway “Spring” by Prestigious Textiles Designs from the UK. It’s a 100% cotton, 214 g/m², and it’s advertised for cushions and curtains and bed coverings. This is ideal “Pippi Longstocking fabric”: add some pockets and you’ve got a dress you can USE. Wash a fleece. Chase a pet. Ride a horse. The dress won’t tear and if it gets dirty you just wash it and it’s ready for fun again.

For the Butterfly Dress we remade the pattern. Because after I finished the taupe coloured canvas dress I had pulled apart all the different pattern pieces we so meticulously had taped together. Don’t ask me why. I sometimes do weird things. I thought I needed the pattern pieces for another dress. Or that the tape would damage the paper. Or something.
vlinderjurk handsewn dress fitted continuous hem selfdrafted pattern butterfly fabric

So the next lesson, last Wednesday, we spend two hours putting the pieces back together again but this time we put them on a new piece of pattern paper and drafted a whole new pattern. This pattern I took home and the next day I sewed the Butterfly Dress from it, in one day, and I wore it to my party on Saturday. With facing and handpicked zipper. and reinforced pocket entries. Only the hem, I didn’t have time to hem the dress. It’s just a zigzag.

The only seam in the hem:
vlinderjurk handsewn dress fitted continuous hem selfdrafted pattern butterfly fabricvlinderjurk handsewn dress fitted continuous hem selfdrafted pattern butterfly fabric

There was a slight hickup on Thursday as I forgot that the darts were based on the pattern pieces and thusly had their SA = 1 cm still incorporated. With original 10 pattern pieces that’s a wearing ease of 20 cm
vlinderjurk handsewn dress fitted continuous hem selfdrafted pattern butterfly fabric

Luckily with darts extra width can easily be remedied: handsewn dress sewing self drafted pattern bunka dressform continuous hem
Such a away back…

I drafted the facing from the pattern pieces myself by tracing and taping the pattern pieces:
vlinderjurk handsewn dress fitted continuous hem selfdrafted pattern butterfly fabric
It did not fit neatly on the fabric. Who knows what I’d done to it. Maybe I stabilized the neck line too late and had ruined it when fitting the dress?
I did stabilize it, with non bias tape:
vlinderjurk handsewn dress fitted continuous hem selfdrafted pattern butterfly fabric

Not sure if that’s the correct way. Here’s how the pattern fitted on the fabric. It will be a puzzle for the car fabric because you want the cars to be continuous and there’s one pattern piece that’s apart from the others. We’ll see: vlinderjurk handsewn dress fitted continuous hem selfdrafted pattern butterfly fabric

Pink trees dress shirt (French cuffs)

cufflink-green

Range of arm motion with this Bunka armhole and sleeve:
arm movement freedom drafted armhole sleeve Bunka dress form sewingarm movement freedom drafted armhole sleeve Bunka dress form sewing

A sleeve placket is called a “mouwsplit” in Dutch. Sew right side to wrong side, with “the house” to the shorter side/back side of the sleeve.
naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof
here are some tutorials I could watch:

  • I wanted to sew this dress shirt like this:
    naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof
    but then the sleeve seam needs to be right at the side seam. Mine is rotated, because it’s a Bunka sleeve and Bunka arm hole. Pity, now I cannot finish the shoulderseam the way I wanted to.
    Too much fabric on one side, not enough on the other:
    naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stofnaaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof

    A separate problem: I didn’t walk the pattern… The front panels are less wide than the back panels. The princess seams should meet each other precisely so that’s where I match them —> I should scoop out the back neck a bit and make it meet the front panel:
    naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof

    The collar has the upper side reinforces (Vlieseline G700, meaning woven and more firm than 701) and the under collar a bit stretched, just like mr. Page Coffin suggests. Only 4 mm does the trick. Also done on the short sides.
    naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof

    French cuffs:
    The part that doesn’t touch the wrists has interfacing on it. Vlieseline G700 which is a woven multi-purpose interfacing for ironing on. It’s more sturdy than what’s normally used for light cotton garments.
    I paid attention to the direction of the trees, when the cuffs are folded and worn.

    I attached on the WS of the sleeve, then flipped them over and pressed the SA firmly and neatly on the RS. Its edge just covered the sewing line.
    Then I tacked it down temporarily by a line of the broadest stitches my machine can do:
    roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing Now it will stay put while I topstitch neatly around the cuff: roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing
    roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing

    I hope the holes will disappear when the garment is washed for the first time. Inside: the topstitched line is just above the construction line. This is always a problem for me, I feel there is something to achieved here but I cannot wrap my head around it. roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing

    This is the top part of the French cuff, the part that folds over when they are being worn. I put the “turn of cloth” on this side so when worn it will not be visible:
    roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing

    Collar stand.
    Figuring out the right size this one is about 6 cm too long. The shape of the ends is also very different from the usual shape. My tiny neck gets a fitted collar stand and a collar that starts right at CF. No round shape needed. I wonder how it will look once finished. How it will wear.

    roze boompjesbloes collarstand well fitted dress shirt for a woman

    Finished.
    tailored ladies dress shirt sewing french cuffs pink trees fabric finishedtailored ladies dress shirt sewing french cuffs pink trees fabric finished
    I’ll be making these changes to the pattern:

    • spread the collar.
    • shorten the sleeve split, it’s up to my elbow now

    It fits very close at my bust and collar bones and shoulder seam. I cannot see if this is from the raised front neck line or perhaps the way I cut and sew this particular shirt. Will have to sew another one.

    Will walk the pattern before I do so.

Preparing for an advent quilt with 24 pockets

I bought a darling panel of fabric with Advent blocks from illustrator Flora Wyacott at the quilting store in Den Bosch, Bossche Quilts & Meer. Sorry for the wrinkly fabric, I had taken it out of the protection and admired it a lot before I took these pictures:
advent panel fabric Flora Wyacott quiltsenmeer.nl quiltwinkel in Den Bosch, St.Jorisstraatadvent panel fabric Flora Wyacott quiltsenmeer.nl quiltwinkel in Den Bosch, St.Jorisstraat
advent panel fabric Flora Wyacott quiltsenmeer.nl quiltwinkel in Den Bosch, St.Jorisstraat
My idea is to make each square into a pocket. That will be 24 lined and interfaced patch pockets that are then sewn onto a back ground fabric, in a not quite precise composition. Then add batting and backing to that and quilt it together by hand with thick thread for visible handstitching. Add straps to hang it. Give it a nice border.

Today I washed and pressed the fabric and made a try-out of my idea with some quilting fabric I had and some other fabric. I hope to take it to the shop soon for feed back.

Start by interfacing the pocket, I used Vlieseline G700, the woven multi-purpose interfacing. Sew RS together with a piece of lining, I used some shirt cotton I had left of my monkey dress shirt. Trim:
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.

Turn, press and topstitch the top which will be the opening of the pocket:
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.

Sew the pocket to the back ground fabric (backstitch a bit at the tops of the vertical lines):
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.

Add batting and a backing fabric and quilt it together with handdyed sock yarn from Adventsbox 2017 by Wolbeest:
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.
The backside is a sturdy canvas:
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.

I have many questions and I hope to visit the quilt store this week. It’s a lovely store and they host quilting bees.

Some of my questions are:

Will sock yarn be good enough for quilting? It’s a bit elastic. Will it keep the quilt together when it’s hanging on the wall, filled with presents?

Also: is there too much contrast between the interfaced pocket and the hand stitching? I like the look of the handstitching. But the interfacing will help and keep the picture of each panel nice and crisp.
Perhaps I should give each panel a bit of backing instead of interfacing? Perhaps quilt them a bit too, by hand? (I think I quite like to handstitch, it is a lovely and serene activity.)

I look forward to the opinion of the lovely lady who runs the shop. And ofcourse I need background fabric. I’m thinking silver and light blue. And I need to be educated about batting.

new cufflinks and fabric

These are the cufflinks I own at the moment:
collage cufflinks

This is what gives me great pleasure in sewing and wearing tailored ladies’ dress shirts. French cuffs, fun fabric, good fit, good arm movement.

Most cufflinks are hand made and bought on Etsy.  The wooden ones -both the square ones and the ebony with silver- are from Ukrainian artist Lexwoody on Etsy

The silver ones -hare, deer, flower- are handcast high quality pewter by master artisan William Sturt from High Country Pewter.

The porcelain ones with the rose are vintage. They were from my mother or even my grandmother. These are the cuffs that started this whole love affair, back in the ’80s, when I found a white blouse in the shops that had French cuffs.

Last week I bought some more cotton for dress shirts to go with these cufflinks:
katoentjes stoffen bloezen Steff’s Stoffen in Veghel

And then I bought some more cufflinks, in China:
cufflinks collage sept 2018