Pink trees dress shirt (French cuffs)

cufflink-green

Range of arm motion with this Bunka armhole and sleeve:
arm movement freedom drafted armhole sleeve Bunka dress form sewingarm movement freedom drafted armhole sleeve Bunka dress form sewing

A sleeve placket is called a “mouwsplit” in Dutch. Sew right side to wrong side, with “the house” to the shorter side/back side of the sleeve.
naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof
here are some tutorials I could watch:

  • I wanted to sew this dress shirt like this:
    naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof
    but then the sleeve seam needs to be right at the side seam. Mine is rotated, because it’s a Bunka sleeve and Bunka arm hole. Pity, now I cannot finish the shoulderseam the way I wanted to.
    Too much fabric on one side, not enough on the other:
    naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stofnaaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof

    A separate problem: I didn’t walk the pattern… The front panels are less wide than the back panels. The princess seams should meet each other precisely so that’s where I match them —> I should scoop out the back neck a bit and make it meet the front panel:
    naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof

    The collar has the upper side reinforces (Vlieseline G700, meaning woven and more firm than 701) and the under collar a bit stretched, just like mr. Page Coffin suggests. Only 4 mm does the trick. Also done on the short sides.
    naaiproject sewing shirt rozeboompjes roze boompjes stof

    French cuffs:
    The part that doesn’t touch the wrists has interfacing on it. Vlieseline G700 which is a woven multi-purpose interfacing for ironing on. It’s more sturdy than what’s normally used for light cotton garments.
    I paid attention to the direction of the trees, when the cuffs are folded and worn.

    I attached on the WS of the sleeve, then flipped them over and pressed the SA firmly and neatly on the RS. Its edge just covered the sewing line.
    Then I tacked it down temporarily by a line of the broadest stitches my machine can do:
    roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing Now it will stay put while I topstitch neatly around the cuff: roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing
    roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing

    I hope the holes will disappear when the garment is washed for the first time. Inside: the topstitched line is just above the construction line. This is always a problem for me, I feel there is something to achieved here but I cannot wrap my head around it. roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing

    This is the top part of the French cuff, the part that folds over when they are being worn. I put the “turn of cloth” on this side so when worn it will not be visible:
    roze boompjesbloes French cuffs sewing

    Collar stand.
    Figuring out the right size this one is about 6 cm too long. The shape of the ends is also very different from the usual shape. My tiny neck gets a fitted collar stand and a collar that starts right at CF. No round shape needed. I wonder how it will look once finished. How it will wear.

    roze boompjesbloes collarstand well fitted dress shirt for a woman

    Finished.
    tailored ladies dress shirt sewing french cuffs pink trees fabric finishedtailored ladies dress shirt sewing french cuffs pink trees fabric finished
    I’ll be making these changes to the pattern:

    • spread the collar.
    • shorten the sleeve split, it’s up to my elbow now

    It fits very close at my bust and collar bones and shoulder seam. I cannot see if this is from the raised front neck line or perhaps the way I cut and sew this particular shirt. Will have to sew another one.

    Will walk the pattern before I do so.

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Preparing for an advent quilt with 24 pockets

I bought a darling panel of fabric with Advent blocks from illustrator Flora Wyacott at the quilting store in Den Bosch, Bossche Quilts & Meer. Sorry for the wrinkly fabric, I had taken it out of the protection and admired it a lot before I took these pictures:
advent panel fabric Flora Wyacott quiltsenmeer.nl quiltwinkel in Den Bosch, St.Jorisstraatadvent panel fabric Flora Wyacott quiltsenmeer.nl quiltwinkel in Den Bosch, St.Jorisstraat
advent panel fabric Flora Wyacott quiltsenmeer.nl quiltwinkel in Den Bosch, St.Jorisstraat
My idea is to make each square into a pocket. That will be 24 lined and interfaced patch pockets that are then sewn onto a back ground fabric, in a not quite precise composition. Then add batting and backing to that and quilt it together by hand with thick thread for visible handstitching. Add straps to hang it. Give it a nice border.

Today I washed and pressed the fabric and made a try-out of my idea with some quilting fabric I had and some other fabric. I hope to take it to the shop soon for feed back.

Start by interfacing the pocket, I used Vlieseline G700, the woven multi-purpose interfacing. Sew RS together with a piece of lining, I used some shirt cotton I had left of my monkey dress shirt. Trim:
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.

Turn, press and topstitch the top which will be the opening of the pocket:
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.

Sew the pocket to the back ground fabric (backstitch a bit at the tops of the vertical lines):
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.

Add batting and a backing fabric and quilt it together with handdyed sock yarn from Adventsbox 2017 by Wolbeest:
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.
The backside is a sturdy canvas:
try out of a quilted advent calendar pocket for a fabric panel I bought that had 24 images to be converted to pockets. Quilt.

I have many questions and I hope to visit the quilt store this week. It’s a lovely store and they host quilting bees.

Some of my questions are:

Will sock yarn be good enough for quilting? It’s a bit elastic. Will it keep the quilt together when it’s hanging on the wall, filled with presents?

Also: is there too much contrast between the interfaced pocket and the hand stitching? I like the look of the handstitching. But the interfacing will help and keep the picture of each panel nice and crisp.
Perhaps I should give each panel a bit of backing instead of interfacing? Perhaps quilt them a bit too, by hand? (I think I quite like to handstitch, it is a lovely and serene activity.)

I look forward to the opinion of the lovely lady who runs the shop. And ofcourse I need background fabric. I’m thinking silver and light blue. And I need to be educated about batting.

new cufflinks and fabric

These are the cufflinks I own at the moment:
collage cufflinks

This is what gives me great pleasure in sewing and wearing tailored ladies’ dress shirts. French cuffs, fun fabric, good fit, good arm movement.

Most cufflinks are hand made and bought on Etsy.  The wooden ones -both the square ones and the ebony with silver- are from Ukrainian artist Lexwoody on Etsy

The silver ones -hare, deer, flower- are handcast high quality pewter by master artisan William Sturt from High Country Pewter.

The porcelain ones with the rose are vintage. They were from my mother or even my grandmother. These are the cuffs that started this whole love affair, back in the ’80s, when I found a white blouse in the shops that had French cuffs.

Last week I bought some more cotton for dress shirts to go with these cufflinks:
katoentjes stoffen bloezen Steff’s Stoffen in Veghel

And then I bought some more cufflinks, in China:
cufflinks collage sept 2018

Experiment: dress with continuous hem.

Say you have a fabric with a continuous line of cars. And you have a dress pattern with multiple panels but because you lack hips or a butt all seams are pretty much straight down from the hip line.
Could you line up the panels and cut the dress in one continuous pattern?
naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk

I asked my sewing teacher and she laughed out loud and then she looked at me strange and then she went to make us a cup of tea and when she came back she had a plan and we had fun pouring over a piece of trial canvas that I brought. End result first: naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk

You can’t just lay down the pieces next to each other, that would add all the seam allowance (SA) to the circumference of the dress. So you’ve gotta be smart.
You also have to think about how you would treat where the fabric transitions from one piece to two pieces seamed together.
Thirdly my teacher came up with the idea of connecting the panels at the top, where you would otherwise sew them together, and treat the seam between them as a dart.

This is the line where the hips are. The SA of 1 cm should be sewn everywhere or this dress will be too floppy.
naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk

We connected the front side panel and the front side side panel. The “hole” will be a dart now. I am anxious what this will do for fit. This pattern fits so well and precise. naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk

We did the same at the back panels:
naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk

Copying the darts onto the fabric and also to the other side. Mark with pins and draw on the other side. Work one dart at the time so you won’t confuse yourself with pins on the under side:

naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurknaailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurknaailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk
Working with this chalk makes broader lines than I like, because I pay attention to every millimeter. I should ease up, this fabric is on the sturdy side, it needs some millimeters for turn of cloth and the like.

Cutting!
naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk

Cut:
naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk
From top to bottom: frontpanel on the fold, side panels but only the parts with the pocket, to the left of them the upper side of these panels (they will connect in the pocket), side back panels, back panels which will have a zipper.

One piece:
naailes experiment jurk uit 1 stuk canvas autojurk

Next: reinforce neck line so it won’t stretch during handling. Sew in darts. Attach loose panels onto pocket parts. Add facing in neckline and arm holes.

Continuing next Wednesday.

The dark leaves dress, slightly stretchy woven cotton.

Finished a dress, in brushed cotton with a slight stretch widthwise. I can just about pull this dress over my head, no zipper needed. It has pockets:
dress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehvdress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehv

The two front panels with a pocket. The edge of the pocket is reinforced with a piece of non-stretch band.
dress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehv

First the long seam was sewn and finished. The the pocket was finished. This is the underside of the pocket, the part that will touch my body: dress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehv

The other long seams were not finished straight away. First I tried on the dress for fit. I had to find out how the wearing ease was. It’s the same pattern as for my woven cotton dress shirts.
It is too wide:
dress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehvdress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehv

It needs about this much taken out:
dress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehvdress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehv

Me and my sewing instructor pinned the seams where needed and I sewed the new lines, amended again where necessary. When finished and content I added the changes to the paper pattern pieces. I now have a go to pattern for slightly stretchy woven fabrics.
If I add a Centre Back to the pattern pieces and some seam allowance I can add a zipper. I wonder if I can then sew this pattern in a non-stretchy woven. Or whether I need more wearing ease for wearing and not for just getting in the dress.

New side view:
dress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehv

Neckline facing: underlined with vlieseline (a quality version my sewing instructor gave me, not the cheap stuff you can buy at any fabric store). Edges clipped before pressing and topstitching:

dress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehv

To prevent flipping up I have tacked down the facing in a couple of places, using dark thread and a dark spot in the fabric pattern:
dress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehv

I’ve now learned to treat a square neckline with a facing. It’s not briljant yet. But I do love the look of a square neckline. Looking forward to utilize it on the many sturdy and beautiful canvas fabrics I’ve encountered. Such as print “Admiral” from PT Design in the UK and their print On the Road:

Very happy with my new dress:

dress dark flowers fabric sewing Ehv

Circus blouse, from before Trekkersbloes

Sewed before the Mrs. Engineer Machinery Blouse.
circus bloes

I love this blouse. I am wearing it right now!

This one has darling fabric and owl buttons: circusbloescircus bloes

I put the buttons down close to each other at the apex of the bust, for more closure: circusbloes

Oops! I put the right sleeve in the left armhole and vice versa….
circus bloes
I’m wearing it nonetheless. I put in two extra buttons in the sleeve slits to prevent gaping. The slits are finished with a continuous bound placket.
It’s OK but I don’t mind putting in a real sleeve placket. It’s about as much work for me.

some study shirts from before

Blue sleeveless shirt, sewn before Trekkersbloes and Pink Fern and Ehv Kawaii.
blauwe bloesje korte mouwen

Studying fit and princess lines and arm hole and neckline. Collar obviously too wide for the stand. Neckline too roomy. Simple treatment of the button band. This is a very wearable and versatile Summer blouse. blauwe bloesje korte mouwen

First I tried finishing the arm holes with biaisband. It failed:
blauwe bloesje armsgat biaisband

Attaching collar, following the sequence my sewing teacher advised: blauwe bloesje armsgat biaisband
Attach collar to collar stand. Then attach the whole to the bodice. I’m not very good at this sequence. The topstitching and having a neat fit at the buttonbands has failed.

blauwe bloesje korte mouwen

Very comfortable fit. Here it still has the low hem at the back. This was changed in later versions of this pattern:

blauwe bloesje korte mouwen

Fitted dress shirt with French cuffs

sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric

The fit is nice. Armhole and sleeve are very good. Neckline of the pattern will be raised (by a whopping 3 centimeters! More than one inch.) Shorten sleeve.sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabricsewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabricsewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabricsewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric
The collar tips flip upwards. Tack down with buttons. Collar stand misses button.

The neckline was amended a bit to prevent gaping that occured in the previous blouse. I folded a bit in the curve and kept the Centre Front straight:
patroondelen trekkersbloes

French cuff and nice sleeve placket:

sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabricsewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric Cufflinks from Ukrainian artist Lexwoody on Etsy The cuff sits fine. Sleeve is a bit too long though. The pattern is amended and I now have a definitive pattern piece for my sleeve. Going with the Bunka arm hole. Sleeve fits perfectly, there is no need to ease it in. sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric

Extra buttons to keep the collar edges down. They were flipping up: sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric

Just a little button. Sewn in the same direction as the button that closes the collar stand. sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric

A bit of protection at the wrong side of the fabric so the button will not tear through the single layer of fabric. I tried to finish it neatly:

sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric

Also note the topstitching on the collar stand. I have issues with getting it neat. Victims of the Sewing On Buttons Without The Button Foot Trial of Summer 2018: sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric

I could pin down the button fine with just the empty shaft. But these kind of buttons will make the shaft sproing away and the needle would smack into the (plastic) button. sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric sewing a tailored ladies’ dress shirt with French cuffs and cunstruction vehicle fabric

Much better. I am getting there! Just one more dress shirt. With a raised neckline and shorter sleeve. And further practise on getting the topstitching on the collar stand right.

The seam allowance is brought back to only 1 cm and now all pattern pieces fit on one width of cloth (of 1.40 m): patroondelen trekkersbloes

I’m using the same pieces for a dress and they fit beautifully:
patroondelen jurk op 1 stofbreedte//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

2 woven cotton summer shirts to refine the pattern: Pink Fern shirt and Ehv Kawaii

I sewed two Summer shirts from the fitted pattern. The Pink Fern was to refine the pattern more (neck line, collar, hem line at the back). The Ehv Kawaii shirt is because I liked the fabric and wanted a Summer shirt.  I tweaked the width of the button band and tried my hand at finishing a neck line with facings.

The Pink Fern came first:
pink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petitepink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petite
Again with 6 seams in the bodice, to fit my Petite Frame with Big Boobs and Sway Back. On the right is a view from the side to show how much space boobs need.

Fit of the shirt:
pink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petitepink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petite
Fits well. No restraints anywhere, lots of movement possible for the arm.

Not much room to be shaved off the pattern at the belly or the back: pink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petitepink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petite
Meaning this is my final bodice pattern for woven fabrics. I’ll have to accept that this is my shape and that my boobs suggest to most people that I am short and stocked:
apenbloessewing tricot top selfdrafted pattern aangeknipte mouwen. Past precies uit 1 m stof, dankzij de brede heupband die mijn sway back goed staat.

Stretchy fabrics accentuate my sway back and make me look more elegant. Also: FODMAP diet reduces the air in my stomach and makes it flat. Ah, there’s always a bit of tweaking possible here and there. But for now: this pattern for woven fabrics is now a good compromis between wearing comfort and slender silhouette. It is definitive. SA 1 cm. Which means that all 6 bodice pieces can fit next to each other on a piece of fabric from 1.40 m wide. Excellent.

Not so excellent: the collar and collar stand.
pink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petite
The collar is sitting crooked in this picture, it is equal in reality. It sits too far apart in the middle though. Also the neckline is not high enough, it does not fit my neck well enough.

The collar stand is uneven. It is not of equal height. It is also not sewn very neatly to the button bands.
pink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petite

Besides drafting a good collar and collar stand I was also fiddling with the sequence of sewing them together. Mr. Page Coffin suggests attaching the stand to the shirt and then the collar to the stand. The few shirt I’ve sewn I followed his guidance.

But my sewing teacher is used to first finishing the collar and stand together and then attaching it to the shirt. I tried her method as she is here in real life to guide me and I am still very much a student.

I did not succeed in attaching the collar stand neatly to the shirt, it was quite fiddly and many things were going on simultaneously. Not being skilled enough to envelop a raw edge with two pieces of fabric of which one folds in and then you sew it down from the other side led to a kind of ridge on the inside of the neck:
pink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petite
When I wear this shirt this piece of sewing irritates the back of my neck. It is not smooth.

I do like how I attached the buttons though. It fits the plant motif of my pink fabric 🙂 The inspiration came from Pinterest:
 sewing art by Bettina Reisinger

This is how I finished the sleeves (which shape came from my now standard, self drafted sleeve, just cut short). Fold under and stitch, it’s a whimsical Summer shirt after all: pink fern fitted blouse shirt sewing woven cotton details collar stand fit petite

The armhole has an issue though. The second princess seam comes in at a right angle towards the arm hole. This complicates sewing and puts strain on the fabric. The arm hole does not wear entirely comfortable:

princes seam to armhole Bunka style self drafted. The pink comes at an angle and does not wear (or sew) pleasant. The white kawaii is more vertical and is an excellent arm hole.

The second shirt, Ehv Kawaii, shows how I fixed that. The seam now smooths into the vertical part of the arm hole:
princes seam to armhole Bunka style self drafted. The pink comes at an angle and does not wear (or sew) pleasant. The white kawaii is more vertical and is an excellent arm hole.

This is the whole shirt:
kawaii fabric summer shirt facing sewing woven cottonkawaii fabric summer shirt facing sewing woven cotton

I liked the fabric very much and just wanted a shirt, fast. That’s why I skipped the collar and collar stand, I had another try-out shirt on the way to fix that fit.

I took away the “flap” at the hem at the back that the Pink Fern shirt has. It is meant for shirts that tuck into trousers or skirts. But this shirt pattern is long enough to do that anyway.

And I failed at sewing the hem neatly, with a small folded under hem, if the hem had those steep bends in it. I sewed with the foot attachement.

I scooped out the neckline and added facings.
beleg Ehv kawaii bloesje//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js
Finished with a double row of top stitching (no understitching). Press press press before you stitch stitch stitch.
ehv kawaii shirt detail neckline sewing

The raw edge of the facings were finished with a simple zig zag stitch:
ehv kawaii shirt detail neckline sewing
I did not use interfacing. This is a light weight fabric and a light shirt. It only needs to have a nice finish, not a firm shape.

Attaching facings is doable but how to treat the edge of the button band? I winged it:
kawaii fabric summer shirt facing sewing woven cotton kawaii fabric summer shirt facing sewing woven cottonkawaii fabric summer shirt facing sewing woven cotton
Not bad. It will work. This little flap will be tacked down by the button hole/button.

I thought better of it and folded it back a bit at the side of the button holes:
kawaii fabric summer shirt facing sewing woven cotton
So here I am now. I’ve got a self drafted pattern that is finished for all the bodice parts, wearing ease, arm hole, sleeve. The things that remain are a good collar and collar stand, on a well fitting neck line. And learning to sew the collar and collar stand neatly together and to the shirt.

For this I will follow mr. Page Coffin’s book.

As a matter of fact, I’ve got the next shirt nearly finished, in the green fabric with the machinery:
stoffen-woven
and it has French cuffs and a collar and collar stand that are sewn together neatly. All that remains is to add the buttons and to draft a better fitting neck line. And then… then!… then I will have a good pattern that I can use over and over again and I can cut up my quality fabrics and just sew the shirt together.

brown little monkies shirt

In my quest for a nice fitting lady dress shirt with lots of arm movement I have come a long way. I now have an armhole that gives a good range of movement. This monkey shirt is one of the last try-out shirts before I have a real pattern and can start real dress shirts.

apenbloesapenbloesapenbloes Armhole comes from Bunka dress form. As do the fout princess seams (2 in the back, 2 in the front. Plus 2 sideseams. That’s a lot of seams.) apenbloesapenbloes

It works so well for a sway bag and a big bust on a small frame. The next version of this pattern is a bit more fitted.   I used a continuous bound placket for the sleeve slit using this tutorial: http://basicsewingtips.blogspot.com/2009/10/continuous-bound-placket.html apenbloes continious blind sleeve placket

Chosing buttons, sewing them with the wrong side up:
naaien naaihoekje naaimachine Janome

Shape and fit of collar and collar stand are next to be altered:
apenbloes