Sewing the Beige Winterbeestjes Shirt 2/2

COLLAR SURGERY because the collar was too wide, its base overlapped at CF.

determine points on stand where you want collar to end: on either side of the button band = 1,25 cm from CF

Plan: open up the collar on the raw edge, fold side inwards and fudge it so the angle of the points is steeper. Preserve the point but make the side come in faster.

collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloescollar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloescollar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes

Attaching collar stand to the bodice, trying to match the new collar width. There’s really not much space in the bodice, with the zipper running so high:
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes
Turned out nice.

Attaching collar to the collar stand. Sure a whole lot of layers in that collar stand. I did a lot of trimming after this photo:
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes

This is how it turned out: collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes
That’s allright. Wearable, breathable. Way better than it was previous, where the neck ended too high and the collar stand overlapped as illustrated by the two red pins:

 

Detail of the sleeve head and the armhole. Why is the sleeve less wide than the bodice?
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes

Next time I will finish the arm hole first and then ease in the sleeve. I’ll also amend the sleeve, adjust it for a wider biceps without altering the circumference of the head like this: Sewing sleeve adjustment biceps

Altering a linen top.

Bought a linen top that was ecoprinted by independent dyer Annie Leynen from FeltingVilt in Belgium. The garment original was a tunic from MEXX. It had some nice details but its shape was all wrong for me.
10
6

Wrong shape and awful open armhole:
5

Nice detail:
3

Here it is after I played around with it:

modified mexx top. eco printed.modified mexx top. eco printed.modified mexx top. eco printed.

I put in waist darts at the front, two at each side. Ending in tucks at the underbust, something I haven’t used before. I also cut off some of the length.
modified mexx top. eco printed.
modified mexx top. eco printed.

At the back I elongated the vertical darts and put in TWO horizontal darts to accommodate my sway back. One runs from side seam to side seam, the other just between the back darts. Now there’s no fabric folds anymore at the back, it lies smooth.

I put in a triangle at the armhole, using the cut off hem piece:
modified mexx top. eco printed.

I made some pleats to match the front detail and played around with the stitching so I didn’t have to tie to many loose ends:
modified mexx top. eco printed.
Nothing fancy on the inside, just fold under and stitch. I did secure the point at/to the side seam allowance.
modified mexx top. eco printed.

I should like to put in a little thingy at the shoulder band that catches the bra strap so it doesn’t come peeking. But I probably won’t because of priorities and limited time/energy.

I’m very happy with my new shirt, showing off that intriguing eco printed fabric. I love how the sewing thread and the buttons took up colour too.
Garment wise I like the front detail, with the pleats and the panel, as a means to address bust shaping. With my body shape that’s where designing starts: how to treat the underbust. Otherwise: potato sack.