Couture Dress: cutting the fabric and basting the lining onto it

My lining is some sort of flanel, the marks don’t show up very well.
Never mind, I’ve thought of a solution. I’m using the toile/muslin as pattern pieces. I used them to cut the fabric and now I’m basting the lining onto the fashion fabric using the seam lines on the muslin.


I can easily fold the pattern pieces on their seams, I haven’t ironed them. Because most seams are marked by (black) stitching I can fold under or over, it’s very easily visible. Do pin securely though.
I just trace it with the needle. Easy peasy.
It took my full allotment of energy both yesterday and today, a total of four hours, to baste the 7 pieces of this sheath dress.

The lining and the fabric now form a new fabric. Warm. Good for a winter dress. Now to baste these pieces together, following the precise lines the lining basting provides. And then the fitting of the dress. Final stage!

But….. just as I had pretreated every pieces and was pinning together the very first two pieces … I realized I’ve made a colossal error…

I used the muslin pieces as pattern pieces with the right side up… on the side of the lining that will be the inside of the dress…

I have made the mirror of the pieces I need! And as all pieces are tailored to my not symmetrical body I now have … not a dress.

I’m having a lie down now. It was time for it anyway, my afternoon hour was up. But I feel rotten!

Even if I can use the fabric pieces (it is jacquard fabric, I might get away with using the wrong side on the outside) I have to undo all the basting. And redo it if I want to have a lining.
The redoing will take another four hours. Another two days of full energy allotment. I had plans for the next two days. Plans like taking a shower and cooking a hot meal. I’m not very willing to post phone those for another two days.

Yeah, I’ll be lying here, trying to wrap my head around this one.

“I don’t want to talk about it!

Other solutions are to just take out the lining and make the dress -wrong fabric side out- without lining. I might do that… at the least it will tell me if this muslin works in real fabric. Will have to trace all the seam lines onto the fabric though… there’s another two hours work.

I also heard a rumour that they sell dresses in things called “shops”…

credit: puffer fish photo by Judy Roberson


Couture Dress: cutting the lining

Then cutting with a wide seam allowance.

After this I’m using the pieces of the lining to cut the fashion fabric, again with wide seam allowance.

Then comes basting them together. By hand.

But first I’ve got to lay down again. Such a drag.

here’s the picture of what you see on the right side once you rip the seam after you’ve marked it:

Summer Dress: Charles 2nd prevents finishing…

There were still two problems with the pink flowery dress that still needed to be solved: I had crooked up the neckline and something was amiss where the bodice was attached to the skirt (lots of layers and ugly bulging).

Since discovering I love handstitching I solved the neckline by stitching it by hand.

For the bodice-skirt-problem I unpicked the seams. I opened the seam and pressed it. The pattern says to flip both sides to the top but that looked terrible. I now have one side looking up and one looking down.

In the back I could finish both seams using the lining. Here the lining was long enough to fold it under the seam allowance that was pressed downwards towardds the skirt. I had my sewing machine have a look at it and that was that. The last 3 cm I stitched by hand, making sure I did not have to undo the seam that holds the zipper (and the lining) but still protect the lower part of the seam properly.
The lower part is rolled a bit and kept in place by hand stitches while the lining travels upwards towards the zipper seam, also assisted by some hand stitches. No fraying. I put a pin in it to show you:
Modeled by my lovely assistant Lillepoes who is quite opinionated when not snoring or shedding…

It is really weird, the dress was on the table for just a second. I turn around to get a pin, turn back and there’s a cat on it!

In the front the lining is not long enough to cover the lower part of the seam. So I just folded it under and sewed it to the upper part, protecting that from wear and fraying. I sewed it by hand. It only took one episode of Horrible Histories, a British children’s show about history and an absolute blast.

They have amazing sketches and songs based on modern songs, this is one of my favourites:

Charles the second, King of Bling!

The actors really are amazing, they can take on so many different flavours and personalities. Go look at a clip or better yet watch the series!

For the front part of the dress I’ll have to insert an other solution to keep that seam allowance from fraying. I have opted for binding with a piece of ribbon. I have not thought this through yet…
Here’s a piece of purple satin ribbon (that came with a box of chocolates. Those are THE GOOD RIBBONS!).
It’s not bias band and I have to think about how many lines of stitching this requires. The idea is the edge of the fabric will be caught in the folded ribbon but I don’t want to make it too bulky or stiff.

But can’t think now, have to watch the rest of the series Horrible Histories nr4!