Failed: Lila Dress Shirt

Based on Beige Beestjes Shirt I made a new pattern, with princess seams for better shaping at the underbust and looking for a better armhole. I sewed the shirt but the fit is so bad I won’t finish it.
fitting of handsewn self drafted blouse (it doesn't fit well. Too much shaping in too few princess seams. Also needs more wearing ease and lower armhole.)fitting of handsewn self drafted blouse (it doesn't fit well. Too much shaping in too few princess seams. Also needs more wearing ease and lower armhole.) fitting of handsewn self drafted blouse (it doesn't fit well. Too much shaping in too few princess seams. Also needs more wearing ease and lower armhole.)fitting of handsewn self drafted blouse (it doesn't fit well. Too much shaping in too few princess seams. Also needs more wearing ease and lower armhole.)fitting of handsewn self drafted blouse (it doesn't fit well. Too much shaping in too few princess seams. Also needs more wearing ease and lower armhole.)

The main problems are the armholes and that the shaping at the underbust is too extreme for the fabric. This petite busty woman needs more than two princess seams at the front. Right now the shaping on those two is too extreme and the fabric stretches and flares.

I did bring the Beige Beestjes Shirt up to a pattern with princess seams, both in the front and the back. Back is nearly good now, it just needs a little less curves at the bottom. (It’s not too tight at the arm hole, the tightness there is caused by the armhole and sleeve. But it looks weird, I agree.)

It’s getting better and better though. Combining this with “Loes’ bloes” from the previous post and I’ll have something wearable soon.

Process for Lila Shirt:
using Block April 2016, to find out if it’s ok. Basically a resew of the slippery cheap market cotton shirt from June 2016 that was a failure.

  • amendments: using “upperbust” (=93 cm) at the point that this pattern drafting methode uses “borstwijdte” which is right at the horizontal line at the armpits. This brings in the sideseam at that point, by 4×2 cm for the block. At the apex (nipples) I’m still using “borstwijdte”. Basically I’ve now used my upperbust and given the block a FBA. I found that each shirt drafted from the block was too wide at the armpit, just where I wanted the armhole to be fitted.
  • amendments: elongating shoulder seam by 1 cm
  • new shirt pattern from the block will have princess lines both front and back and a new sleeve and arm hole, derived from Beige Winterbeestjes bloes. I mainly need this block for better waist shaping (and the mentioned snugness at the arm pit horizontal line).
  • amend block to have a CB that’s not straight? Has the waist shaping incorporated instead? –> only whenever there’s a CB seam. Otherwise use two princess seams.

Still working towards the ultimate Dress Shirt Pattern for all my future shirts and any woven that catches my fancy. From Block to Pattern:

  • swiffel side bust dart to the waist dart, not to the armhole.
  • match front and back panel at the shoulder seams and make arm hole nice and round at the top.
  • 1 cm wearing ease at the side seam/arm pit
  • back shoulder side dart swivveled to shoulder seam (will become part of princess seam, no yoke this time). Not sure if the line is supposed to be at a square angle with the shoulder seam. I just assume so. Next: redraw the arm hole so it’s smooth again.
  • draw princess seam. Will smoothen
  • add wearing ease: 1 to 1,5 cm at the sideseam. Compare with pattern for Beige Winterbeestjes
  • neck CB -0,5 cm; shoulder seam -1,5 cm. Bottom CB + 3 cm, sideseam -2 cm
  • SA 1,5cm
  • frontpanel: swivveled side BD close and brought it to the waist dart. Swivveled arm hole BD to the princess seam in the shoulder. Left with an akward arm hole. Smoothened it and now have a front length of the arm hole of 19,1 cm. The length of the front of the sleeve cap is 22,9. I’ll never be able to ease that in, too much difference. (the original, awkward arm hole is 19,1 cm). I’ve folded away some of the width of the sleeve, with the emphasize on the sleeve cap. Front of that is now 22,1 cm wide, the back 24,0. That’s 4 cm more than the armhole. I’m going to try and ease it in. I think 3 is the maximum you’re supposed to do but if need be I can resort to a fold at the high point of the sleeve. I’ve drawn the line a little closer to the original awkward armhole, another few mm won. Also: I had widened the sleeve at the biceps with 2,5 cm. Half of that has now been folded away. I will do another sleeve adjustment to get that back. The shape of the sleeve cap will flatten even more as a result.
  • 2,5 cm van de mouw af voor een mouwlengte van 59 cm. Machet is 13 cm hoog, dubbelgevouwen, met manchetknopen. Nagetekend van mijnwitte bloes.

backpanel: dart to princes seam:

pattern drafting Lila Dress Shirt bust darts

front panel: closing side dart. Making a princes seam to the arm hole results in terrible angled side panel (see pencil-finger-pencil). I opt for princes seam to the shoulder seam. pattern drafting Lila Dress Shirt bust dartspattern drafting shirt Sewing darts armhole

that weird steep armhole again… rounding it off. Butn ow the circumference gets too out of line with the length of the sleeve cap. Settling on the middle line. pattern drafting shirt Sewing darts armholepattern drafting shirt Sewing darts armhole

I made some adjustments to the block, based on this shirt. One of them is lowering the shoulderseam at the neck by 1 cm:

fitting of handsewn self drafted blouse (it doesn't fit well. Too much shaping in too few princess seams. Also needs more wearing ease and lower armhole.)

The main problem, other than the armhole, is that the extreme waist shaping a busty petite woman needs cannot be done in just two princess seams.
fitting of handsewn self drafted blouse (it doesn't fit well. Too much shaping in too few princess seams. Also needs more wearing ease and lower armhole.)fitting of handsewn self drafted blouse (it doesn't fit well. Too much shaping in too few princess seams. Also needs more wearing ease and lower armhole.)fitting of handsewn self drafted blouse (it doesn't fit well. Too much shaping in too few princess seams. Also needs more wearing ease and lower armhole.)

I’m looking at designs with more seams, more panels, horizontal parts even.

Like these from DD-atelier and CarrisaRose:

Advertisements

my first “Loes’ bloes”

A top with a scalloped front. No opening though, it slips over the head. Gathered sleeves.

Pattern drafted at course, based on my personal block.

topje patroontekenen schulprand French bustdarttopje patroontekenen schulprand French bustdarttopje patroontekenen schulprand French bustdarttopje patroontekenen schulprand French bustdart

Learned a lot. Still looking for a good arm hole + sleeve. This arm hole was cut 3 cm lower from the block. It’s about 1 cm too low at least. The sleeve should have been elongated at the underarm, I feel. Now it only allows for the arm to hang straight down.

Had to open the neck front more than initially drafted. I have a large head on a scrawny neck. The block is good for drafting tops with a wide neck or an opening (such as dress shirts) but it’s too tight when only regular drafting numbers are used for tops that slip over the head. Needs 5 cm more, on top of the regular numbers (1,5 cm at CF en CB here).

I feel the back has too much fabric lengthwise. The small of my back is not sufficiently accommodated. Yet my teacher showed that when arms are raised the back wil travel up. So fabric is needed. Perhaps additional shaping fixes the problem.

In the left front panel the bust dart is folded away: CF is not straight any more.

In the right front panel the bust dart is swivveled into a French dart. This one needs to have it end point about 5 cm lower, well below the apex. And at the side seam it needs to be lower too, about 10 cm.

used this tutorial form Sewaholic for the simple continious sleeve plaquet.

Untitled

Finished: Beige Winterbeestjes shirt.

handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt

Finished the dress shirt. It’s wearable, yay!

Noting the problems:

I used the selvedge at the button band but now it shows at the underside:
handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt
handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt

The shape at the arm hole needs to be taken a little in at the sideseam. The arm hole needs to be brought closer to the body at the underside. The sleeve then needs to be equally elongated:
handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt
The steep corner at the front of the armhole isn’t actually much of a problem. Besides it being difficult to cut and difficult to sew.

Collar is a bit too wide:
handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt
Probably the width I added when I thought it was too narrow.

The waistshaping is horrible:
handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt
I’m converting it to a princess seam or to a panel with tucks or pleats at the underbust. Being petite with a small frame and having this proportionally big boobs just won’t make a nice fitted dress shirt with just waist shaping.

Little mistake: both sleeve plackets are the same. One closes the wrong way around. But at least they are both at the correct spot on the sleeve: the underside.
handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt

Overall I’m happy. This is wearable!

Today I wear it with my fractal handspun vest.

Sewing the Beige Winterbeestjes Shirt 2/2

COLLAR SURGERY because the collar was too wide, its base overlapped at CF.

determine points on stand where you want collar to end: on either side of the button band = 1,25 cm from CF

Plan: open up the collar on the raw edge, fold side inwards and fudge it so the angle of the points is steeper. Preserve the point but make the side come in faster.

collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloescollar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloescollar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes

Attaching collar stand to the bodice, trying to match the new collar width. There’s really not much space in the bodice, with the zipper running so high:
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes
Turned out nice.

Attaching collar to the collar stand. Sure a whole lot of layers in that collar stand. I did a lot of trimming after this photo:
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes

This is how it turned out: collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes
That’s allright. Wearable, breathable. Way better than it was previous, where the neck ended too high and the collar stand overlapped as illustrated by the two red pins:

 

Detail of the sleeve head and the armhole. Why is the sleeve less wide than the bodice?
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes

Next time I will finish the arm hole first and then ease in the sleeve. I’ll also amend the sleeve, adjust it for a wider biceps without altering the circumference of the head like this: Sewing sleeve adjustment biceps

sewing the Beige Winterbeestjes Shirt 1/2

Things to keep in mind before starting:

  • the fabric has direction: keep all iglo’s upright during cutting
  • separating zipper for closure: construct like a lapped jeans zip, with a guard made from the facing and a lap from the other front panel. Construct within the existing pattern buttonbands (except for the interfacing of the left panel). The buttonbands need to be 0.5 cm wider.
  • green thread for nice topstitching and edgestitching (collar, cuffs
  • pattern pieces do not have a seam allowance. Add 1.5 cm
  • how to treat the CB seam if you want to try it on for fit? temporarily attatch to yoke and front panels? Or make the pattern as is, since it will probably be wearable, and adjust the basic pattern afterwards?

sewingsteps to take:

  1. cutting
  2. staystitch
  3. clipping
  4. sew princess seams back panel
  5. sew yoke to back panel
  6. sew front facing
  7. sew fronts to yoke
  8. fit
  9. sew zipper and finish seams
  10. sew and attach collar and stand
  11. sew sleeve placket
  12. set in sleeve
  13. fit
  14. finish seams
  15. sew cuffs
  16. hem bottom
  17. final fit

SEWING STAPS ACTUALLY TAKEN:

1. cutting
adding seam allowance, 1,5 cm, by marking important points with a fabric marker or following my measuring device when cutting or cutting by eye.
Adding some tailor tacks to apex and dart points.
sewingsewing

2. staystitching
at 1,3 cm from the edge, with cheap thread. Doing the top of the sleves, the armholes, the neck holes, the top of the yoke. Keeping that weird steep angled arm hole, just to try out with the sleeve I drafted:
sewingsewing

3. clipping
postphoned until actual pieces are to be sewn

4. princess seams back panel
Trying out the felled seam foot on my sewing machine. Page Coffin is such a big fan of it, he says there’s no use trying to fell a seam by hand. I have no success in either yet, since this is the first time I try it.
My foot makes small felled seams: 5 mm wide. These are used on my commercial dress shirt on the side seams and the sleeve seams. The armhole seam is done with a very wide felled seam.
feller seam footfeller seam foot
I have especially trouble in the second run.

My try out, on the left by hand, on the right with the foot. Front and back:
feller seam foot   feller seam foot
I ended up just sewing the seams, pressing them, topstitch and pink.

5. yoke to back panel
done. It works very well when pieces are precision cut. Everything fits.

Grade the seams with the pinking shears:
adding a lapped zipper to a dress shirt

6. front facing
For treating the raw edge of the front facings I practised the rolled hem foot. It’s appalling. The round part cannot be done like this. Needs to be finished another way.

In fact, the facings are better off with rectangular shapes. Will amend pattern after this. Finishing: just tuck under, stitch, pink.

6.5 Button bands and zipper
This took some piecing and puzzling and making up my mind:

  • right front folds at CF, zipper peaks from under there.
  • right front facing elongates 1 cm (or less, 7,5 mm is ideal) to the left, functioning as zip guard.
  • at the top (at seamline, not actual top) the right front facing veers to the right to align with the front panel and dissappear together into the collar stand.
  • left front panel laps over the zipper, 1,25 cm from CF. Left from CF is another 1,25 cm = de button band is 2,5 cm wide.
  • left front facing is attached to front panel before attaching zipper, it reinforces the flap. Sew facing and panel together first, creating a seam at the outer (visible) end just like with jeans’ zip.

NB “roll of cloth” and have the outer panel dominate the inner panel at the seam. OR – reinforce the left front panel at the zip lap. use interfacing to catch the zipper and not have it touch bare skin, just like the right front facing does. Yeah, that’s more sensible. How to reinforce the left front then? iron on stuff = not my favourite… Is interfacing needed though? it concerns the 1,25 cm zipper lap… it is the weakest point of the shirt though both Page Coffin and my teacher recommend using it though. Iron on interfacing it is.

UPDATE: I got some brand iron on interfacing, weight 200, and it was way better than the brandless one I had before.

  • start with pressing CF line into right front panel.
  • position zipper, xx cm down from the top of CF (change of plan: zipper needs to end high, with the zippertape on the seam. Facing will not veer back. The whole will have to disappear into the collar stand.)
  • position right front facing, max 1 cm outwards from CF, press in place -attach interlining to right front, right facing and left front
  • check everything one last time
  • fold right front to the left so it’s fold under wrong side is exposed, on top of the righ facing (WS up). Sew together.
  • fold back, insert zipper and sew it. First to the facing alone just to position it permanently, then topstitch front through zipper tape and facing.
  • position left front panel so CF’s line up -determine where left facing should fold, as not to overlap with right facing this determines where zipper should be attached to left facing
  • fold over left front panel and sew it to the zipper and the facing with topstitiching zipguard, just 7 mm out of CF (CF = middle of zip in this case):

adding a lapped zipper to a dress shirt

adding interfacing:
setting a lap zip in a dress shirt button band

Right facing sewn to front panel seam allowance. Then the panel is folded back into its position and sewn close to the zipper teeth:
setting a lap zip in a dress shirt button bandsetting a lap zip in a dress shirt button bandsetting a lap zip in a dress shirt button band

On to the left facing and panel. First position zipper to facing, pin in place:
setting a lap zip in a dress shirt button band

Then fold front panel back and sew in place with a topstitching 2,5 cm from the edge (1,25 cm from CF) and edge stitching near the edge. Result:
setting a lap zip in a dress shirt button band   setting a lap zip in a dress shirt button band

The lap differs in width from CF at the bottom. It ought to be everywhere 1,25 cm but I noticed that the print would give away that I haven’t cut the pattern piece on the straight grain. So I opted for visual straighness and not actual straightness:
setting a lap zip in a dress shirt button bandsetting a lap zip in a dress shirt button band

Before all this I tried to have the zipper at a lower position, further from the collar. I also tried to fold back the zip guard a bit so it would align at the top with the front panel, where they both could be caught by the collar stand.

I abandoned that idea when I tried on the bodice parts and found out that I wanted the zipper to close up higher. But  here are some pictured from that previous attempt, for future reference:
adding a lapped zipper to a dress shirtadding a lapped zipper to a dress shirtadding a lapped zipper to a dress shirt

I also investigated catching the zipper of the left panel in between the front and the facing, creating a double seam right at the end:
adding a lapped zipper to a dress shirt
But decided to do things differently.

7. fronts to yoke
No problem. Sew, press, topstitch, pink.

8. fit
(check fit back and whether the side seams need more waist shaping. Check that zipper fits. Don’t add the front panel waist shaping yet. Check height collar.)

Only checked the zipper and the neck opening.

9. add zipper and finish seams

10. sew and attach collar and stand

11. sleeve placket
I combined this tutorial by Sewaholic above with instructions from Page Coffin, page 103. I placed it 6 cm from the sideseam. WS placket up on WS sleeve, close to the front of the sleeve but with “tower” at the other side. plusminus 4,5 cm between side seam and placket slash. Not more. This places the slash at about the highest point of the “wave” shape in the bottom of the sleeve. I put the placket on the wrong side 😦

When turning the sleeve placket, don’t fold the sleeve fabric. The placket folds over the raw edge.
sleeve placket dress shirt through tutorials by Sewaholic and Page Coffinsleeve placket dress shirt through tutorials by Sewaholic and Page Coffin

sleeve placket dress shirt through tutorials by Sewaholic and Page Coffinsleeve placket dress shirt through tutorials by Sewaholic and Page Coffin

Don’t fold the sleeve fabric; let the placket encase the raw edge:
sleeve placket dress shirt through tutorials by Sewaholic and Page Coffin sleeve placket dress shirt through tutorials by Sewaholic and Page Coffin

Sew backpart into place before folding toppart back for topstitching. This way I’m sure the back part got caught everywhere. I sewed it from the WS.
sleeve placket dress shirt through tutorials by Sewaholic and Page Coffin sleeve placket sewing dress shirtI did it on the other side too, earlier.

Endresult:
sleeve placket dress shirt through tutorials by Sewaholic and Page Coffinsleeve placket dress shirt through tutorials by Sewaholic and Page Coffin
It looked neat when folded but less neat when sewn. I’m still a beginner.

UNFORTUNATELY I sewed the placket on the wrong side of the sleeve, it should have gone to the right on the right sleeve. I will decide later on wether I’ll cut and sew a new sleeve+placket or wether to call this one a design feature and wear it as is.

Second one:
First sewing around the slit and cutting the slit and pressing the placket to the right side. Then I secure the placket on the WS.
When cutting the slit I’ve clipped through the sewing by mistake!

I try to fix this by starting the securing seam on the WS above the fold I want to secure. It ventures a bit into the part of the little folded triangles that are now not secured at their base (because I clipped through the thread by mistake):
sleeve placket sewing dress shirt sleeve placket sewing dress shirt

second endresult. Neater than the first now that I did not try to extremely edgestitch the “little house”:
sleeve placket sewing dress shirt

Oh. I see I forgot to sew all the way to the bottom. Must return to the sewing machine. In the little “house” I let the stitch length determine where the seam would fall. You see the upper part is not at the very edge of the outline.

Backside. Ugh. I caught the fabric. Luckily just in the SA. Can clip it free.

sleeve placket sewing dress shirtsleeve placket sewing dress shirt

As you see I tucked away all threads as I went. I pull the thread to the side (WS/RS) where I can hide it and then I hide it under the fabric that’s sewn in place. Sometimes I first tie a knot. I did so with the securing stitching I did on the WS. Now off to sew that seam I forgot. 10. collar and stand I’m contemplating a loop and a button for closure at the stand. But first I’ll construct the collar and the stand. COLLAR: DPC is a fan of non-sticky interfacing. I’m using cotton from a new sheet. Following Sewaholic’s collar-tutorial.

  • cutting the interfacing
  • Removing SA on 3 sides (use paper pattern piece as a template, don’t add to previous cutting imprecisions).
  • place interfacing on one of the collar pieces. DPC wants interfacing on the wrong side of the top collar. Makes sense, that’s the one you want to be reluctant folding over. (I think the top collar is the one you see when you wear the shirt, it touches your neck and dives into your shirt.) Make sure the pattern print is the right way up
  • removing 6 mm on either side of the other collar piece
  • don’t have glue, I pin the interfacing to the collar piece.
  • edgestitch the interfacing
  • cut corners, press. Have the top collar “flow over” the under collar ever so slightly.
  • press whole collar and topstitch (stretch into position undercollar as you do so). I chose edgestitching
  • fold seam allowance and press. Stitch a line into it. I fudged the fold afterwards (and effectively the SA) to make sure both collar points have the same length.

COLLAR STAND: tutorial http://sewaholic.net/sewing-a-collar-stand-the-shirtmaking-way/

  • fusable interfacing. I have so much SA the stand will be tough anyway.
  • zipper ends too high, pattern should be ammended. For now I lower it as far as possible, adding a new staystitch. Clipping. Pin, from the inside, the clipped side. Stitch
  • pin other stand in place and stretch it while sewing. I sewed from the same side as before, to make sure I followed the same line. It looks horrible from the other side… I doubt that this will yield a decent collar stand…
  • mark end of the collar. It’s 1 mm inside the edge of the panel. Follow the fold in the collar and the intended seam (-SA) of the collar stand.
  • already in the sewing stage I lengthened the neck line by deepening it. Now the collar virtually ends at the edges of the front panels. I should have shortened the collar. Ack. The collar points overlap around CF. Will have to see if I can somehow lengthen the seam it follows int he stand or shorten it’s own seam (by moving it outwards, towards the raw edge: awkward long pointed collar). Both not succesfull. Sew a new collar?

I’ll stop sewing now. This post shows two days worth of full time sewing. Collar with sewn in interfacing. Sew from the centre outwards:

Sewing collar shirtmaking Sewing collar shirtmakingSewing collar shirtmakingSewing collar shirtmaking

Cutting the undercollar a bit shorter (6 mm on either side). Will stretch it when sewing: Sewing collar shirtmaking

The corners:

Sewing collar shirtmakingSewing collar shirtmaking

I trimmed that itty bitty of excess interfacing before cutting the corner and turning it.

Topstitching of the collar = edgestitching. Without a special foot, just by eye: Sewing collar shirtmakingSewing collar shirtmaking

Pressed, making the topcollar fall just a bit over the undercollar: Sewing collar shirtmakingSewing collar shirtmaking

Folding the seam allowance as per instructions from both DCP and Sewaholic. The outer edges of the various fabrics are not meant to line up and they don’t because one fabric has to travel the outer side of the fold whilst the other travels the (shorter) inside:
Sewing collar shirtmaking

Checking to see that both collar points are the same. Fudging a bit with where to place the fold to make sure:

Sewing collar shirtmaking

Finished collar:
Sewing collar shirtmaking

Fitting. Gargl! The neckline is too high:

Sewing collar stand shirtmakingSewing collar stand shirtmaking

Caused because in the previous shirt it was too low. We thought it was the pattern but in fact it was the slippery fabric and the way I cut it. Now the zipper is too high also. In white a staystitch line too indicate a new, lower neckline:

Sewing collar stand shirtmaking

It catches the very top of the zipper teeth. Can’t go lower than that. Using fusible interfacing on my collar stand: Sewing collar stand shirtmaking

Sewing the collar stand. “Use lots of pins” recommends Sewaholic:
Sewing collar stand shirtmaking

She then says it’s better to sew it from the other side, where all the clipped parts are, because that’ll be easier to prevent them from getting caught. So I had to shift all these pins to the other side. (btw, I don’t sew over pins. My sewing machine bends all pins it can get its foot on.)

Sewn with green thread from the other side and being very precise about following the existing staystitch seam (white) as a guide:
Sewing collar stand shirtmaking

But I failed to pay proper attention to this side laying smooth. It got caught several times:
Sewing collar stand shirtmaking Sewing collar stand shirtmaking

I unpicked (only) the naughty bits and resewed them.

I sewed the second part of the collar stand in a similar fashion, from the other side where there was already a seam. It made this side look shockingly:Sewing collar stand shirtmaking

This will cause all kinds of problems… I also forgot to stretch the under collar stand while sewing. Made more difficult even since this was the interfaced part. Should have interfaced the first part, I’m sure.

The pins show where the collar stops, they would overlap:
Sewing collar stand shirtmaking
This needs to be resolved.

Fitting of the Slippery Market Cotton shirt

fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern
First shirt from self drafted pattern from beginnersclass Patroontekenen from Modevakschool Nationaal. Unfortunately sewn in a very slippery cotton which caused a few mistakes in addition to my inexperience with sewing and shirts and collars.

Self drafted pattern: yoke in double fabric, button bands, front facing, sleeve plackets, bust darts swiveled into waist darts at the front. Back darts.

Puckering because of the dent at the natural shoulder seam:
fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern
Should have smoothed the dent when putting together front panel and back panel for the yoke. When I do so I should recheck the circumference of the armhole and fit it to the sleeve head.

Front button band looks good. Facings could perhaps be wider to give beter support, Off the Cuff blog is a fan of that. Collar could have a different shape, this is too docile. Should be placed higher up the body too:
fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern
CF lies straight. The fabric lies smooth across my upper torso. A good fit.

Waist darts stop at the apex, a sewing mistake from me. They don’t stop at the apex in the pattern. Not enough waist shaping. Shirt needs more fabric at the front of the sleeve head:
fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted patternfitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted patternfitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern

Caused by swiveling away the little bust dart from armpit to the apex, resulting in a steep arm hole:
fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern
It sits nice on the body though, so I opt for adjusting the sleeve head, not the arm hole.

This much additional fabric is needed at the sleeve. This will distort the smooth look of the sleeve which is a ladies’ sleeve, not a typical shirt sleeve:

fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern

Side seam is straight. But way too much fabric at the back. I have a short torso and a sway back. A petite frame:
fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern
I will address this in the next shirt, the Beige Winterbeestjes, by having two princess seams at the back. A better solution would be a Centre Back seam that’s not a straight line. My teacher has a sway back too and all her fitted patterns need a CB seam and it isn’t straight. This may be the case with me too. But because of the slippery fabric I cannot yet say how much is sewist error in this shirt. There shouldn’t be any faults in the pattern because this is a tailormade pattern drafted to my specific measurements.

Either way I plan to explore my sway back more with other things such as a yoke at the small of my back or a bow like the Deer&Doe dress has. It’s one of my key features and it could be emphasized, I feel.

Arm length is good:
fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern
Cuff’s too wide. Perhaps adjust width of the sleeve at the lower end too.

Back:
fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern
Too much fabric in the lower half. Ugly dart endings. Should also be solved by making them into princess seams, going into the back yoke.
The yoke works nicely: good shape, well fitted. The sideseam could have way more shaping. Something to check out in the next dress shirt, which will be of a better fabric and will have front shaping done at the end, while fitting the shirt. Then we’ll know whether the side seam needs additional shaping too. For now it could be caused by just the slippery fabric, not the pattern.

Back of the armhole and the sleeve is ok:
fitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted patternfitting marktkatoen shirt Sewing self drafted pattern
Should not be smaller for even 5 mm though. To try out this pattern in stretch fabric might be nice.

Changes made to the dress shirt pattern because of this fitting:

  1. made front neck a little bit higher: 1,5 – 2 cm
  2. adjusted collar/stand accordingly. New front length is 10,5 instead of 11,5 cm. Change collar shape altogether, I misunderstood at the course. Teacher drew me a new one, using that one. Could have drafted a new one myself using EmmaMakesPatterns.com tutorial
  3. placing the end points of the waist darts lower at front panel. They are at apex line now. Mistake.
  4. the vertical darts at the back panel are changed to princess seams. Still working on accommodating the sway and short back. This will need different pattern adjustments.
  5. The sleeve head front needs additional fabric. In the market-cotton-version I cut open the seam and placed a piece of fabric behind to find out what and how.
  6. The armhole has a ridiculous curve in it at the front but I’m preserving it.
  7. lessen the dent in the top of the armhole, it’s in the yoke piece at the natural shoulder seam. It caused puckering of the sleeve top.
  8. Undo additional width at side seam at the armhole. Put there to approach the length of the sleeve head better but it’s no good.
  9. Lower sleeve head to approach circumference of arm hole.
  10. make sleeve cuff less wide. It needs about 6 cm overlap now to fit my wrist. Make sleeve placket longer to accommodate this broader overlap.

Another time:

  • draft a horizontal feature at the lower back to hide/take away the extra fabric my short back doesn’t need. A “half-belt” kind of yoke. Or the bow the Deer & Doe has. Or that feature of the pink blouse at my class.
  • use stretch fabric

New side back panel with a princess seam from bottom to top:
centre Back not straight, accomodating for sway Back and short Back. Petite frame

PS this nice tutorial just landed in my inbox: 3 ways to adjust for sway back! by InhousePatterns.com 

 

Altering a linen top.

Bought a linen top that was ecoprinted by independent dyer Annie Leynen from FeltingVilt in Belgium. The garment original was a tunic from MEXX. It had some nice details but its shape was all wrong for me.
10
6

Wrong shape and awful open armhole:
5

Nice detail:
3

Here it is after I played around with it:

modified mexx top. eco printed.modified mexx top. eco printed.modified mexx top. eco printed.

I put in waist darts at the front, two at each side. Ending in tucks at the underbust, something I haven’t used before. I also cut off some of the length.
modified mexx top. eco printed.
modified mexx top. eco printed.

At the back I elongated the vertical darts and put in TWO horizontal darts to accommodate my sway back. One runs from side seam to side seam, the other just between the back darts. Now there’s no fabric folds anymore at the back, it lies smooth.

I put in a triangle at the armhole, using the cut off hem piece:
modified mexx top. eco printed.

I made some pleats to match the front detail and played around with the stitching so I didn’t have to tie to many loose ends:
modified mexx top. eco printed.
Nothing fancy on the inside, just fold under and stitch. I did secure the point at/to the side seam allowance.
modified mexx top. eco printed.

I should like to put in a little thingy at the shoulder band that catches the bra strap so it doesn’t come peeking. But I probably won’t because of priorities and limited time/energy.

I’m very happy with my new shirt, showing off that intriguing eco printed fabric. I love how the sewing thread and the buttons took up colour too.
Garment wise I like the front detail, with the pleats and the panel, as a means to address bust shaping. With my body shape that’s where designing starts: how to treat the underbust. Otherwise: potato sack.

Sewing some parts of the Birds in Shoes Shirt.

Collar.

Using this tutorial from Sewaholic. Excellent work and site.
sleeve sleevecap fit shirt arm hole
I used fusible interfacing on this one.

I made the mistake all novice sewers make:
dreint a collar
I clipped too close to the edge and/or used a pointy thing to try and make a nice point.

Next time I’ll employ one of the tricks I found on the web. One is using a surgical clamp to get a good grip on the point before turning it inside out.
The other one is this beauty, from Off the Cuff, a blog about expert shirt sewing by Pamely Emy:

using a temporarily thread to catch the point.

collar point technique by Pamela Emy

Off the Cuff is a great site with expert information on sewing dress shirts. I’m sorry mrs. Emy doesn’t blog anymore, due to health issues I believe. I hope she still sews and has many good days.

My collar point topstitched:
dreint a collar

Sleeves.

I inserted my Crazy Comfortable sleeve pattern. I now think that the reason they actually work so well is because they’re on the bias… not so much because of the crazy pattern (wide flat shoulder cap. I say “flat” but it’s actually concave.) Anyway. Sewed them in. Pressed good. Added a single needle top stitch to secure the seam.

Now pinking the left over edge:
Untitled

How are these seams finished on high end dress shirts? Surely not serged/overlocked. Felled seams probably. Ah yes, I’ve found some things on the net, one of them, again, an excellent instruction from the Off the Cuff blog.

I’ve now ordered the book on which Sewaholic based her collar-tutorial was: Shirtmaking: Developing Skills For Fine Sewing by David Page Coffin.

51wyjnjldbl-_sx401_bo1204203200_ I hope to learn much from it.

Zipper placket.
It’s not done, a zipper in a shirt. But my machine can’t make button holes and I don’t like to make them by hand. Not yet anyway. I’m sewing a zipper.

I’ve attached a separate placket for it. Did some folding to get the sequence right. The precise cutting I do was very helpful, I could just lay the edges against each other (“flush”?) and treat them as one.

First I attached the zipper to the front and the placket. Then I folded back the front and the placket and sewed a nice top stitch line. Which wrinkled as I progressed with the needle:

Untitled
Because you should always press. Duh.

After pressing it looked better and it sewed much better too:

Untitled

You could press the plackets first, to bring some idea of purpose into the band:
Untitled

Collar stand.
Upon fitting I saw how awful and weird the button plackets looked as they went up vertical above the zipper. Following the Centre Front line right up. Because that’s where all the buttons were supposed to go in the original pattern. I amended the pattern to not have overlapping plackets. But I didn’t amend it for height and it looks awful with the zipper not closing the gap all the way. (and you don’t want a zipper all the way to the top)

Untitled

I also found out that the collar stand I had cut didn’t fit the neck line anymore, it was too short. Don’t know how that happened as I followed the Knip pattern for the neck exactly because I hadn’t learned anything about necklines or collar (stands) yet.

I solved both by folding back the button (zipper) placket. Something else Not Done in sewing. It’s more of a dirty hack than anything else and I’m not proud. But it gets me a front that works and by now this shirt has become a wearable practise shirt so here goes:
Untitled
Fold away and topstitch in place. Awful. But functional.
Now I’ve got an acceptable shape at the front edges. (note to self: a next shirt with a zipper needs it to close a bit higher. About 5 cm.)

Now I could attach a collar stand that fits to that, I learned how to draw one at drafting lessons last Monday. No need though because the original collar stand now fits again, if I shape the rounded edges freehand. (Something else that’s going to get me in trouble. Symmetry is very important at this point of the body.)

Todays task is to finish those round edges of the collar stand and perhaps assemble the collar to it. Again using Sewaholic’s tutorials.

dreint a collar

I’ve trimmed the seams on the inside of the collar stand a bit. It was six layers thick and it will receive three more layers from the collar. That’s just too much difference from the single layer of fabric that’s the rest of the shirt.

A crazy comfortable sleeve in a small armhole.

I traced the weird thing I draped yesterday and cut a new sleeve from it. That’s one weird looking sleeve pattern:
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole
With the sideseams closed it is distorted:
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

This is because I matched the points where the ends of the sleeve cap should meet each other, at the underarm. And sleeve seams are perpendicular to the vertical centre line running down from High Point (which is no longer the highest point in my sleeve cap). Width at biceps is 35 cm, at elbow 30 cm.

(I’ll have to do second trial after this one with horizontal lines running horizontal. Letting the guide line around the biceps meet itself at the seam. Or change the direction from the central vertical line, based on where the sleeve cap edges now meet. But first run this trial.)

Into the bodice and onto the mannequin. It fits into the armhole like a glove. It’s nice not having to ease in extra fabric. Still using lots of pins and sewing over them slowly.
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

On me:
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

Lots of crumpled fabric in the armpit. Uncomfortable. But very easy to lift my arm. The ease of wearing is amazing.

Front shows vertical line running down from High Point (shoulder) to the front. This sleeve is rotating around my arm:

Untitled

I pin away the extra fabric at the arm pit and mark where the biceps guide line now is. Also where the sleeve thinks the vertical line from High Point should run, where it to run straight down instead of coming to the front.

Picture of the sleeve cap with the pinned fabric, the new vertical line coming in diagonally and my biceps guide line which is half moon shaped. Crazy sleeve.

crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

Opening it up again and drafting a new cap sleeve based on the pinning. Take away fabric in the left “mouse ear”, the cap part that meets the arm hole at the front:

crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

I keep the rest the same. There’s the vertical guide line from High Point (HP) at a diagonal angle.

Trying to match the seam points of the sleeve cap for sewing the side seam:
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

This will be sleeve one (1), based on the pinnings from the previous fit. Throwing grain and common sense into the wind.

I’ll make another one (2) based on the draft from the start but now with new sideseams based on how the new vertical line running from the Highest Point runs:

crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

Sleeve 2: I’ve cut fabric away at the left part of the sleeve, adding it to the right. So width of sleeve is 35 cm at (strange half moon shaped) biceps guide line and 30 cm at elbow guide line. At a right angle to the vertical guide line from HP. If this fits at all this pattern should be redrawn on a new piece of cloth, obeying the grain of the fabric.

Fitting:

Sleeve 2, it’s on my right:
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

Sleeve 1, based on previous fit, it’s on my left:
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

Crazy amount of movement possible! It doesn’t drag up the shirt. I like it!

Fitting conclusions:
Sleeve 2 sits awful. Lots of fabric in my arm pit yet still there’s tightness there. My wrist doesn’t level out.
Sleeve 1, distorted as it may be, actually sits really nice. So much movement possible!
Still a few tweaks needed though. (is there more ease because it’s a bit on the bias?)

I’ll cut a new sleeve, on the grain, and put it in the bodice of my fashion fabric shirt. Just cleaning up the lines a bit, having high point and its line in check with grain.
The little tweaks I had to do where in the sleeve cap (just a little less drama in the wave at the front and just a little less flair near the end point back). They cause the perimeter of the sleeve cap to be the exact dimension of the arm hole. 20 cm from front to High Point, 21,6 cm from High Point to back.
This fills me with excitement! This sleeve will fit this arm hole perfectly. Have I drafted a sleeve that, while looking ridiculous, might work?

I’m sewing up my new version into the fashion shirt. (My muslin has been so tortured that it won’t hold another sleeve.)

Premature conclusions:
1. I may have DRAPED a sleeve, not drafted on. This method may work for me.
2. I may have forced myself into this ridiculous need because my arm hole is a bit weird (too tight).

Last fit, on the fashion fabric: nice. I can rotate my arm all around without distorting the bodice fabric.

crazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

Needs less width on the biceps. I can live with a sleeve like this and be seen in public. I’m sure sewists will cringe when they see how my seam rotates around the sleeve.

Ideas for next time: lower the arm hole at the underside with 0,5 cm. Also 0,5 cm more inward at the front. I need a little more space to tuck all the sleeve folds away.

Last play for the day: just a little more cutting and pasting at that ridiculous shape. Try and put it into a grain grid.
3 versions of the same sleeve.
1. the sleeve I found, with the rotating sleeve seam.
2. the same but straight on the grain. Versie “A”
3. version “B” that has everything transferred onto a proper grain grid.

The found pattern, crazy and comfortable:
crazy sleeve pattern with maximum wearing comfort

Version A = previous version but cut on grain:
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

Version B, trying to match the side seams in length. Having som sort of straight line going from sleeve cap to wrist; cleaning up more lines:

crazy comfortable sleeve in small armholecrazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

end result version B::
crazy comfortable sleeve in small armhole

What do yo know, version B doesn’t look that unlike a conventional sleeve pattern after all. A sleeve block with a fairly squarish sleeve cap. (Back is left, Front is at the right of the picture).

Will have to sew these three up and try them for (final) fit. And then dare to sport crazy sleeves on my fabric shirt.

 

 

some residual notes in dutch for me:
3 versies:
1- m’n gevonden vorm. Met verdraaide achternaad. “versie krulletje”
2. deze vorm maar dan recht op de grain met z’n naad en de voornaad reechtgemaat van pols naar oksel. Wat weggeknipt is is aan de zijkant/andere naad erbij geleged en een beetje opgeschoond en ervoor gezorgd dat beide naden 59 cm lang zijn, net als de rechtgeknipte naad. “versie A”
3 “versie B” heeft de HP-polslijn recht op de grain liggen en een grid dat de grain volgt. Het voorpunt v d oksel is recht naar beneden/de pols geknipt en aan de achternaad is ruimte bijgemaakt zodat de ellebeoog 30 cm breedte krijgt en de pols 25 cm. Dit is een papieren oplossing waarvan je nog maar moet zien of het in 3D mooi wordt.

Well fitting sleeves that allow for movement: angle of set in.

I cut the self drafted sleeves and put them into the bodice. Looks alright….ish. We’re only looking at the upper part: shoulders and sleeve cap. Shoulder seam length seems ok. (the neck line still has 2 cm seam allowance so … Continue reading