I sewed two Summer shirts from the fitted pattern. The Pink Fern was to refine the pattern more (neck line, collar, hem line at the back). The Ehv Kawaii shirt is because I liked the fabric and wanted a Summer shirt. I tweaked the width of the button band and tried my hand at finishing a neck line with facings.
The Pink Fern came first:
Again with 6 seams in the bodice, to fit my Petite Frame with Big Boobs and Sway Back. On the right is a view from the side to show how much space boobs need.
Fit of the shirt:
Fits well. No restraints anywhere, lots of movement possible for the arm.
Not much room to be shaved off the pattern at the belly or the back:
Meaning this is my final bodice pattern for woven fabrics. I’ll have to accept that this is my shape and that my boobs suggest to most people that I am short and stocked:
Stretchy fabrics accentuate my sway back and make me look more elegant. Also: FODMAP diet reduces the air in my stomach and makes it flat. Ah, there’s always a bit of tweaking possible here and there. But for now: this pattern for woven fabrics is now a good compromis between wearing comfort and slender silhouette. It is definitive. SA 1 cm. Which means that all 6 bodice pieces can fit next to each other on a piece of fabric from 1.40 m wide. Excellent.
Not so excellent: the collar and collar stand.
The collar is sitting crooked in this picture, it is equal in reality. It sits too far apart in the middle though. Also the neckline is not high enough, it does not fit my neck well enough.
The collar stand is uneven. It is not of equal height. It is also not sewn very neatly to the button bands.
Besides drafting a good collar and collar stand I was also fiddling with the sequence of sewing them together. Mr. Page Coffin suggests attaching the stand to the shirt and then the collar to the stand. The few shirt I’ve sewn I followed his guidance.
But my sewing teacher is used to first finishing the collar and stand together and then attaching it to the shirt. I tried her method as she is here in real life to guide me and I am still very much a student.
I did not succeed in attaching the collar stand neatly to the shirt, it was quite fiddly and many things were going on simultaneously. Not being skilled enough to envelop a raw edge with two pieces of fabric of which one folds in and then you sew it down from the other side led to a kind of ridge on the inside of the neck:
When I wear this shirt this piece of sewing irritates the back of my neck. It is not smooth.
I do like how I attached the buttons though. It fits the plant motif of my pink fabric 🙂 The inspiration came from Pinterest:
sewing art by Bettina Reisinger
This is how I finished the sleeves (which shape came from my now standard, self drafted sleeve, just cut short). Fold under and stitch, it’s a whimsical Summer shirt after all:
The armhole has an issue though. The second princess seam comes in at a right angle towards the arm hole. This complicates sewing and puts strain on the fabric. The arm hole does not wear entirely comfortable:
The second shirt, Ehv Kawaii, shows how I fixed that. The seam now smooths into the vertical part of the arm hole:
This is the whole shirt:
I liked the fabric very much and just wanted a shirt, fast. That’s why I skipped the collar and collar stand, I had another try-out shirt on the way to fix that fit.
I took away the “flap” at the hem at the back that the Pink Fern shirt has. It is meant for shirts that tuck into trousers or skirts. But this shirt pattern is long enough to do that anyway.
And I failed at sewing the hem neatly, with a small folded under hem, if the hem had those steep bends in it. I sewed with the foot attachement.
I scooped out the neckline and added facings.
Finished with a double row of top stitching (no understitching). Press press press before you stitch stitch stitch.
The raw edge of the facings were finished with a simple zig zag stitch:
I did not use interfacing. This is a light weight fabric and a light shirt. It only needs to have a nice finish, not a firm shape.
Attaching facings is doable but how to treat the edge of the button band? I winged it:
Not bad. It will work. This little flap will be tacked down by the button hole/button.
I thought better of it and folded it back a bit at the side of the button holes:
So here I am now. I’ve got a self drafted pattern that is finished for all the bodice parts, wearing ease, arm hole, sleeve. The things that remain are a good collar and collar stand, on a well fitting neck line. And learning to sew the collar and collar stand neatly together and to the shirt.
For this I will follow mr. Page Coffin’s book.
As a matter of fact, I’ve got the next shirt nearly finished, in the green fabric with the machinery:
and it has French cuffs and a collar and collar stand that are sewn together neatly. All that remains is to add the buttons and to draft a better fitting neck line. And then… then!… then I will have a good pattern that I can use over and over again and I can cut up my quality fabrics and just sew the shirt together.