Self drafted pattern for a blouse, with close fitting arm hole and two sleeves, one of them oblong.

A few muslins further and now I’ve got one that works and that I’d actually call a pattern:

Untitled
sleeve sleeve cap fitting arm hole

I’ve been playing with sleeves a bit.
I’ve drafted and fitted on that I’m going to use. It’s on the left arm hole of this muslin. It has a biceps width of 35 cm and a sleeve cap matching the armhole exactly at 42,3 cm. It has little gussets at the sides.

On the right shoulder is an oblong sleeve. Just a straight piece of cloth, 42,3 cm in width and some 25 cm high. I wanted to learn how much arm movement it gives. I’ve been reading and rereading Ikatbag’s explanation of sleeves and I wanted to experience it.

Just a rectangle sewn into arm hole:

sleeve sleeve cap fitting arm hole
sleeve sleeve cap fitting arm hole
sleeve sleeve cap fitting arm hole

sleeve sleeve cap fitting arm hole
Excellent movement! Nice flair…

One day I’d like to take this sleeve (cap) and play with it. See if I can eliminate the flair, reduce the bulk at the underarm but still keep most of that nice room for movement. But not today. (I did start. I sewed some lines into the sleeve, as it was still attached, and see how that influenced fit. And I started to read up on medieval smocks and skirtles. But really, I should sew a blouse now.)

This is the sleeve I’ve drafted. It sits nice. But in unwashed cotton it’s still a bit restrictive. I’m hoping it will be alright in the lighter fashion fabric. If not it’ll be a learning experience.
Muslin looks nice though. See how close to the body the arm hole is. It’s not uncomfortable at all!
And it gives better movement than any other sleeve I’ve made before, in any of my grey blouses.
sleeve sleeve cap fitting arm hole
sleeve sleeve cap fitting arm hole
sleeve sleeve cap fitting arm hole

Here’s the pattern of this sleeve cap, with the dark thread indicating the sleeve cap but without gusset flares at both ends:
sleeve sleeve cap fitting arm hole

I also drafted front panel facings; a collar and a collar stand and plackets for the sleeves.

Now I’m ready to transfer markings to fashion fabric I think…

This is the fabric:

Untitled

front pleat top

I’m inspired by this top:

and this book:

Buit Countryfair 2015

The book promotes quality fabrics and loose fitted garments.
The top Laricci Smunch sewed is pattern Burda 17/2012 #103 in a less drapey fabric than the pattern example.

I want a top that pleats as nonchalant as hers. That works with my broad shoulders and small hips. With pockets.
The book convinces me to go for a loose garment and to use some of the linens I’ve been hoarding. Reading some more about linen I found the site Fabrics-Store.com with some really encouraging tutorials.¬†They say: just go for it! Just enjoy your linen!

Since I’m working without a pattern I’m making a muslin first, to work things out. I copied more or less the back of a longsleeve that fits comfortably.
I took that as a template for the front panel but I only used the bottom. For the top part I swiveled the piece to the right and the left so I would get enough ease in the middle for the pleat but still have matching side seams. I have not decided how I’ll do the neck.

Because the original Burda pattern has a non-desirable look in light fabrics (so frumpy!) I want to stiffen up my fabric. I cut an underlining. But I’m not sure yet how this will help in the middle of the front panel. Should I use fusing? Should I fuse the underlining to the shell fabric? Perhaps with little quilt tacks. I’ve got no idea yet.

WHAT I DID SO FAR.
Take off shirt and lie it on the fabric:
Front pleat top

Cut around it. One rough outline of a back panel:
Front pleat top

Match up the sides:
Front pleat top

For the front panel: cut the bottom the same but for the top part swivel it to the left: (picture is flipped horizontally)
Front pleat top

And swivel to the right:
Front pleat top

Match up the sides.
Now I have one back panel and one front panel:
Front pleat top

I also cut some underlining following the top part of these pieces. Now I’ll have a little cup of tea and a little think about how to proceed.