It is quality though. Linen with saw dust or horse hair in it. Really firm.
I guess I can dream about making a proper jacket one time in the future now?
Princess seams in front and back. A pleated fanshaped vent in the back, two in fact in each of the princess seams.
Straight front panel with handspun silk detail which returns in the patch pocket.
details of sewing:
The princess seam at the side front panel does not match the straight front panel. I sew a shape into the front panel and it doesn’t show in the finished project. Will amend pattern:
Reinforcing the front top with unstretable band:
Treating the seam allowances: stitch, trim so they are neat, fold under, press, sew:
Clip at ridiculous curvy bits:
Armholes are finished with biais band. Pin in place
Stitch (from the RS, right in the fold):
Clip and trim:
Redo parts that looked wonky from the RS. The curve in the armhole is very steep, it’s difficult to sew without catching some fabric here or there. Note how the band is folded at the start, this will fold inside neatly:
Baste in place. I used my machine with a long stitch and low foot pressure:
Pick with the hand. At the steep curve I have to bring the stitches closer to the edge, all the way to the basting line. The biais band just won’t stretch enough to let the fabric lie flat.
Pocket: treat top first, then use a carton mold to press the shape around (using a gathering stitch):
I added a detail with handspun Mulberry silk. Also to sew the folded under top in place and to prevent stretching. This edge was not reinforced with non-stretching tape or band:
a few tweaks to the pattern of the green flowery wriggle dress:
– make front panel straight. 19 cm from top to bottom. This means:
– subtract 2 cm from the side panel princess seams. This gives too much curve at the waist line. The fabric won’t be able to attend to it. I middle the curve with the front panel:
– at the waist line of the front panel there’s a slight shaping of 0,5 cm.
– it needs 2 x 0,5 cm more room at the apex. Given this at the sideseams.
– vent at the back princess seams, not at the side seams.
– lower the back neck line. It creases on the back torso in the green dress, even after we took out some of the length.
– handpicked binding at the arm hole and neck line.
– stay tape at the top of the front panel
– the arm hole is good. Good as a base for a dress shirt. Nice and close to the body, giving maximum range of motion.
The idea is that this too will be a try out dress. To get to the perfect basic dress pattern.
– treated seam allowances by folding them under and stitching. They were too scratchy if I’d overlocked them or sewn a zigzag. Looking forward to giving this pattern a lining.
– bias band at the armholes, unstretchable tape at the front and the neck line
– patch pocket, using <a href=”http://inseamstudios.com/sew-patch-pocket/”>this tutorial from inseamstudios</a> and https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/465418942732862681/<a href=”https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/465418942732862681/”>this tutorial</a>
– handsewn details at front panel and pocket, from handspun mulberry silk.
Conclusions after sewing:
– armhole curves too steep for bias binding, this shape benefits from facing. Teacher says to deepen the hole for future dresses. I’m holding hope that a sleeve will fit in there. (but now I see my previous shirts in my minds eye and I know that that’s probably not the case.)
– after wearing it a while I can say that upper legs have enough space for free movement. This is good.
– use same pattern pieces for a (medium weight) tricot/ jersey. Sew same pattern pieces with 1 cm SA instead of 1,5 cm for wovens plus lining. And a long sleeve? Would be ideal for winter.
– ease the curve at the back, towards the shoulder seam, a bit.
I took the pattern from the lilac linen trousers (haven’t shown it yet. It’s a remake of these failed trousers which I took to my first sewing lessons and my teacher rescued them) and converted it: – deepened the pockets. I want 7 cm deep from where the lower opening hits the side seam. – took in front by 3 cm (twice) with darts which I folded away, opening up the bottom and giving it a flare. – took in CB by 0,5 cm (twice) but only in the waistband. – cut backpanel in two and flared the bottom, just like the lowest panel on this picture:
- front panel
- pocket top side (2)
- pocket under side (2)
- back panel (2)
- side panel back (2)
- zip protector
- waist band front (2)
- waist band back (2)
- yoke back (2)
- interfacing for waist band
Thinking about interfacing waist band, I’m no hero with iron on interfacing…
- press non stretch band (naadband) onto pocket inside 1,5 cm from the edge (middle of seam)
- pin inside pocket onto front-panel, RS together. Sew over naadband, fold, press, topstitch.
- attach underside pocket onto innerpocket. sew to inner pocket, treat raw edge. Secure top onto front panel and make sure the top line does not shift.
- sew back panels together, press, topstitch, treat raw edge.
- sandwich back panel in between yokes. Sew, press, grade seams (keep outer seam the longest because of the top stitching), take triangles out of the longest seam. Topstitch the yoke.
- sew the long side seams. Start under where the zipper will be. Fit as is, inside out. Make adjustments if needed.
- Reinforce where the pocket opening meets the side seam. Insert zipper. Treat raw seam edges. Topstitch.
- give waist bands interfacing. I added plain weave cotton and ran my machine over it in a zig zag fashion. attach inner of waist band to front and back panels. Or perhaps first make one continuous button band (close side seams) and try to fit it to the panels.
- Grading the inside of the yoke:
- Pockets are part of one continuous piece to strengthen the horizontal part of the skirt, as to prevent dragging across the pockets from side seam to side seam: Part of this fabric will be visible from the right side, right at the pocket openings:
- Here I should have seen what became apparent when the skirt was finished the first time: it’s see through. I had to take the skirt apart and add a lining. These are two white pieces I added to the front to prevent see through:
- All in all a very nice skirt, from my own fabric. And another base pattern to use again and again. I have already altered this pattern to a version with flaring back panels instead of godets.
Do have to find a solution for waist bands though. I just cannot marry non-fusible interfacing with a shaped waist band AND understand the sequence of montage.
I have sewing lessons now. And they help me with keeping track of a project; with not minding to rip out a seam and with all the tricks and practises of sewing a project. I’m a weird case: I know about pattern drafting but I lack experience sewing.
Thanks to the lessons I now have perfected the pattern for a fitted dress, with princess seams in the front and back.
It wears really comfortable! Not tight at all. We reduced the most obvious gaping and buckling and found real good princess seams and side seams.
Neckline and arm holes have a facing from bias band. They were sewn with the machine from the wrong side and then stitched in place by hand from the right side.
The frontpanel has a straight neckline. We put in staytape to prevent it from wobbling.
We put a lot of attention to the connection of this part to the sidepanels. I had to grade the seams considerably, to prevent bulk.
Also seams I had resewn, in a better line, she told me to take out the previous stitching. Just to prevent unnecessary stiffness.
I now have a base pattern for stretch cotton dresses. I already have a second one cut which will improve on this one with staystitching, vents at the back and non-stretching band at the neckline. And a pocket.
After that I hope to venture this pattern into a thick knit fabric and into a lined version, for Winter.
With this new machine it’s so easy to thread the needle, sew a seam and cut the thread. I’m playing around making fabric out of scraps and trying to sew a needle case. It’s a try out for a swap on Ravelry, at the Dutch Karma Swap Group.
I came across a marvelous blog which promotes playing with fabric and the sewing machine: 15minutesplay.com
So that’s what I did, early this morning, just 15 minutes of playing with scraps I took from the bin.
Wonderful! I’ve never done a thing like this. Nothing remotely “quilt-y”. I like doing this! It’s not very neat but I was assured on the blog that it didn’t need to be. It’s bound to neaten up a but when pressed with the iron, these seams were pressed open with fingers.
The fabric is indigo dyed linen. It was dyed during a workshop from Wolop.nl and I’m using the fabrics for a fitted skirt at the moment.
Now I’m looking to use this little craze scrappy fabric as a front for a needle book for myself. Using this tutorial from Instructables.com for the general idea: http://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-sew-a-needle-book/ and glancing at these two for binding the edges or making them beautiful with piping. Both are from So Sew Easy which seems to be another site that promotes the fun and the skills in sewing.
I’ll update this page as I progress.
I’ve got the shell fabric, the batting and the lining (plain linen):
I sew in the wrong order and have caught the batting in between the right sided fabrics, in the small stitch that I used for this seam:
I turn the project right side out anyways. The batting is not caught everywhere, I had cut it a bit smaller than the fabric. I’ll try and rip or cut it free:
Reasonable succes. The edges are a bit “hairy” here and there but I can live with it. Rather than ripping the fine stitches seam.
Topstitching with a longer stitch. I chose a pale grey instead of the white working thread, just so it would not demand too much attention.
Oh. I forgot to add the closure elastic when I sewed the layers together. Have to think up another closure.
I’ve got some cotton that was dyed when we were dyeing the indigo. We were doing shibori and that requires thread. I’ll use that and make a braid:
I entered the present time:
I brought my retro ’70 machine to Rijkers Naaimachines in Veghel and they explained it really is beyond salvage. It only sews backwards. For a reason. It’s busted and slammed stuck in reverse. It cannot be repaired. Bye bye cute retro Senwa:
If I wanted they had the modern equivalent of this to sell to me. The Janome 423S.
The 423S is mechanical machine, not a computerized Diva with sensitivity issues. And one with more features than a more basic type, this one can do button holes, has an adjustable pressure foot and a whole extra series of stitches.
The ladies at the drafting pattern lessons will be so proud, they’ve insisted for two years now I get myself a machine with at least a zig zag stitch.
The saleswoman gave me an extended explanation until she was sure I could take it home and play around with it without frustration. She suggested I make a drawstring bag for the foot peddle. An easy project that invites me to explore the machine. A wonderful suggestion! 🙂
I got to learn threading the needle, filling a bobbin, various stitch widths and foots. It’s a free arm machine.
I don’t know yet what to do with the loose threads. Just cut them? I am having sewing lessons now and will ask tomorrow. The machine has all kinds of nifty things. How about a thread-through-the-needle-putter?
I learned to make a pyramid WIP bag. I have one made by a friend of mine who is an accomplished sewist. It was my example and I used a bunch of tutorials on the net.
Shell fabric is linen. I love linen.
My zip is 22 cm long. It will be 24 centimeter eventually. Plus 2 x 1,5 cm SA means the short side of the rectangle will be 27 cm.
27/1,73 times 4 = 55,5 plus 2 x 1,5 cm SA = 58,5 will be the long side of the rectangle.
Ack, I have a fat quarter and it’s 50 cm wide. I’ll have to reverse the math to determine how long the shortest side of the rectangle will be.
50 – seam allowance = 47 cm
47/4 = 11, 75 cm
11,75 x 1,73 = 20,4 cm = the measurement of the short side that will carry the zipper. I will shorten the zipper at the bottom as needed. Add seam allowance to the side = 20,4 plus 2 x 1,5 = 23,4 cm.
- Cut two rectangles of 50 cm x 23, 4 cm. One is outer fabric, one is lining.
- cut batting, slightly smaller (47 x 21 cm). Add batting to outer fabric with seams in another direction than parallel to the longest side. I did waves to avoid sewing over the kitties.
- make strap/handle from a rectangle folded in on itself. I used red thread for a bit of accentuation. And I made sure the kitties were positioned in an interesting way. Next handle must be longer: 40 cm.
- gave the top of the zipper a nice edge. With this you can make up for the difference in length between zipper and fabric. Working with the print and red thread for accent.
- attach zipper. 3 layers: top, zip, inside. Because my zipper extended quite a bit at the bottom, I was able to topstitch the second part of the zipper in one go.
- close bottom. The bag is turned inside inside out (yes, twice). Make some kind of butterfly to find the exact opposite points of lining and shell fabric in relation to the zipper. I sewed an extra time over the seam to make it sturdy. Now I have some sort of batted cushion cover with a zipper in the front and the top open. I use a double sewn seam, for sturdiness.
- close the back seam, with the handle in between, but only sew the outer fabric (RS together. Leave the lining alone for now. Leave the zipper open for this part, otherwise problems with turning back right side out.
- sew the lining shut, first from the WS then from the RS. Make sure to catch it onto the top for a bit, because it needs a bit of support.
My handle wasn’t long enough so I couldn’t sew it at an angle so it would point upwards (making the bag hang straight down when on my wrist). But other than that this bag is very nice.
- This time I used slik, slippery lining. It would be better if I caught it in some of the corners onto the shell fabric. Now it’s easy to pull the lining through the opening when I take something out of the bag. Other bags, with quality cotton for lining, stay in shape.
- The handle was too short to give it the right angle for wearing. It’s now at a right angle to the seam. The bag won’t hang straight when worn on the wrist but at least the hand can go through the handle. Next time: handle at least 30 cm long instead of 26.
- The whole bag can be bigger. This is a nice bag though, from one fat quarter with a print that is directed top to bottom. It’s sides are 25 cm long. It’s 21 cm high. It has 4 triangles that are all identical in size and shape, all perfect three sided triangles.
The fabric came from a gift I got for my birthday last year:
Isn’t that a nice idea for a crafty person? It has made me do little handsewing things all year. And now I knew I had the skill set to do the fabric and the zipper justice, they’re both from this jar.
These are the tutorials I used and the sewing steps I did:
I used this Flemish tutorial to learn about the proper measurements: link
I used this tutorial to learn about adding batting: link Loganberry Handmade
This tutorial again for sewing sequence: link Loganberry. I found this to be the best tutorial.
This tutorial for turning things inside out: link Sofilles
and I used all three of them to learn how to make the bag. It’s a compilation of tutorials because one uses squares, another rectangles but no zip endings.
Based on Beige Beestjes Shirt I made a new pattern, with princess seams for better shaping at the underbust and looking for a better armhole. I sewed the shirt but the fit is so bad I won’t finish it.
The main problems are the armholes and that the shaping at the underbust is too extreme for the fabric. This petite busty woman needs more than two princess seams at the front. Right now the shaping on those two is too extreme and the fabric stretches and flares.
I did bring the Beige Beestjes Shirt up to a pattern with princess seams, both in the front and the back. Back is nearly good now, it just needs a little less curves at the bottom. (It’s not too tight at the arm hole, the tightness there is caused by the armhole and sleeve. But it looks weird, I agree.)
It’s getting better and better though. Combining this with “Loes’ bloes” from the previous post and I’ll have something wearable soon.
Process for Lila Shirt:
using Block April 2016, to find out if it’s ok. Basically a resew of the slippery cheap market cotton shirt from June 2016 that was a failure.
- amendments: using “upperbust” (=93 cm) at the point that this pattern drafting methode uses “borstwijdte” which is right at the horizontal line at the armpits. This brings in the sideseam at that point, by 4×2 cm for the block. At the apex (nipples) I’m still using “borstwijdte”. Basically I’ve now used my upperbust and given the block a FBA. I found that each shirt drafted from the block was too wide at the armpit, just where I wanted the armhole to be fitted.
- amendments: elongating shoulder seam by 1 cm
- new shirt pattern from the block will have princess lines both front and back and a new sleeve and arm hole, derived from Beige Winterbeestjes bloes. I mainly need this block for better waist shaping (and the mentioned snugness at the arm pit horizontal line).
- amend block to have a CB that’s not straight? Has the waist shaping incorporated instead? –> only whenever there’s a CB seam. Otherwise use two princess seams.
Still working towards the ultimate Dress Shirt Pattern for all my future shirts and any woven that catches my fancy. From Block to Pattern:
- swiffel side bust dart to the waist dart, not to the armhole.
- match front and back panel at the shoulder seams and make arm hole nice and round at the top.
- 1 cm wearing ease at the side seam/arm pit
- back shoulder side dart swivveled to shoulder seam (will become part of princess seam, no yoke this time). Not sure if the line is supposed to be at a square angle with the shoulder seam. I just assume so. Next: redraw the arm hole so it’s smooth again.
- draw princess seam. Will smoothen
- add wearing ease: 1 to 1,5 cm at the sideseam. Compare with pattern for Beige Winterbeestjes
- neck CB -0,5 cm; shoulder seam -1,5 cm. Bottom CB + 3 cm, sideseam -2 cm
- SA 1,5cm
- frontpanel: swivveled side BD close and brought it to the waist dart. Swivveled arm hole BD to the princess seam in the shoulder. Left with an akward arm hole. Smoothened it and now have a front length of the arm hole of 19,1 cm. The length of the front of the sleeve cap is 22,9. I’ll never be able to ease that in, too much difference. (the original, awkward arm hole is 19,1 cm). I’ve folded away some of the width of the sleeve, with the emphasize on the sleeve cap. Front of that is now 22,1 cm wide, the back 24,0. That’s 4 cm more than the armhole. I’m going to try and ease it in. I think 3 is the maximum you’re supposed to do but if need be I can resort to a fold at the high point of the sleeve. I’ve drawn the line a little closer to the original awkward armhole, another few mm won. Also: I had widened the sleeve at the biceps with 2,5 cm. Half of that has now been folded away. I will do another sleeve adjustment to get that back. The shape of the sleeve cap will flatten even more as a result.
- 2,5 cm van de mouw af voor een mouwlengte van 59 cm. Machet is 13 cm hoog, dubbelgevouwen, met manchetknopen. Nagetekend van mijnwitte bloes.
backpanel: dart to princes seam:
I made some adjustments to the block, based on this shirt. One of them is lowering the shoulderseam at the neck by 1 cm:
I’m looking at designs with more seams, more panels, horizontal parts even.
Like these from DD-atelier and CarrisaRose:
A top with a scalloped front. No opening though, it slips over the head. Gathered sleeves.
Pattern drafted at course, based on my personal block.
Learned a lot. Still looking for a good arm hole + sleeve. This arm hole was cut 3 cm lower from the block. It’s about 1 cm too low at least. The sleeve should have been elongated at the underarm, I feel. Now it only allows for the arm to hang straight down.
Had to open the neck front more than initially drafted. I have a large head on a scrawny neck. The block is good for drafting tops with a wide neck or an opening (such as dress shirts) but it’s too tight when only regular drafting numbers are used for tops that slip over the head. Needs 5 cm more, on top of the regular numbers (1,5 cm at CF en CB here).
I feel the back has too much fabric lengthwise. The small of my back is not sufficiently accommodated. Yet my teacher showed that when arms are raised the back wil travel up. So fabric is needed. Perhaps additional shaping fixes the problem.
In the left front panel the bust dart is folded away: CF is not straight any more.
In the right front panel the bust dart is swivveled into a French dart. This one needs to have it end point about 5 cm lower, well below the apex. And at the side seam it needs to be lower too, about 10 cm.
Finished the dress shirt. It’s wearable, yay!
Noting the problems:
The shape at the arm hole needs to be taken a little in at the sideseam. The arm hole needs to be brought closer to the body at the underside. The sleeve then needs to be equally elongated:
The steep corner at the front of the armhole isn’t actually much of a problem. Besides it being difficult to cut and difficult to sew.
The waistshaping is horrible:
I’m converting it to a princess seam or to a panel with tucks or pleats at the underbust. Being petite with a small frame and having this proportionally big boobs just won’t make a nice fitted dress shirt with just waist shaping.
Overall I’m happy. This is wearable!
Today I wear it with my fractal handspun vest.