Finished the dress shirt. It’s wearable, yay!
Noting the problems:
I used the selvedge at the button band but now it shows at the underside:
The shape at the arm hole needs to be taken a little in at the sideseam. The arm hole needs to be brought closer to the body at the underside. The sleeve then needs to be equally elongated:
The steep corner at the front of the armhole isn’t actually much of a problem. Besides it being difficult to cut and difficult to sew.
Collar is a bit too wide:
Probably the width I added when I thought it was too narrow.
The waistshaping is horrible:
I’m converting it to a princess seam or to a panel with tucks or pleats at the underbust. Being petite with a small frame and having this proportionally big boobs just won’t make a nice fitted dress shirt with just waist shaping.
Little mistake: both sleeve plackets are the same. One closes the wrong way around. But at least they are both at the correct spot on the sleeve: the underside.
Overall I’m happy. This is wearable!
Today I wear it with my fractal handspun vest.
COLLAR SURGERY because the collar was too wide, its base overlapped at CF.
determine points on stand where you want collar to end: on either side of the button band = 1,25 cm from CF
Plan: open up the collar on the raw edge, fold side inwards and fudge it so the angle of the points is steeper. Preserve the point but make the side come in faster.
Attaching collar stand to the bodice, trying to match the new collar width. There’s really not much space in the bodice, with the zipper running so high:
Turned out nice.
Attaching collar to the collar stand. Sure a whole lot of layers in that collar stand. I did a lot of trimming after this photo:
This is how it turned out:
That’s allright. Wearable, breathable. Way better than it was previous, where the neck ended too high and the collar stand overlapped as illustrated by the two red pins:
Detail of the sleeve head and the armhole. Why is the sleeve less wide than the bodice?
Next time I will finish the arm hole first and then ease in the sleeve. I’ll also amend the sleeve, adjust it for a wider biceps without altering the circumference of the head like this: