Finished Red Deer&Doe Bleuet. With deer fabric.

Just popping some photo’s here. Will show details later.
pattern is Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe
adjustments: FBA; considerable grading of the seams for less flare; zipper in de sideseam; a pocket in the other side seam; no collar; no sleeves; use of biaisband to finish raw edges.

It’s not been properly pressed after finishing the edges.
Also threads have not been sewn in yet.

Red fabric is sturdy cotton canvas.
Deer fabric by Stenzo and backed with soft flannel in the center piece.

Red Deer&Doe dress

Red Deer&Doe dress

Red Deer&Doe dress

Red Deer&Doe dress

Red Deer&Doe dress

Red Deer&Doe dress

Red Deer&Doe dress

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tackling the Bleuet Dress collar.

Some people have commented that the collar of Bleuet Dress doesn’t make sense to them. The steps of the process seem weird.
To me they seemed fine and they resulted in a good collar.

Try out Bleuet Dress

What did make me wonder is the amount of fabric I had to trim away. And how the two collar pieces do not seem to fit well together.
I put this down to me being an inexperienced collar sewist. Although they were the first thing I studied when I began sewing.

Here’s the collar of my try out Bleuet Dress. I followed the pattern to the letter. The cutting was precise. Interfused lining was used. Seam allowance was notched:
Untitled

Here now follows the weird bit.
I’ve laid down the pattern pieces exactly like the pattern specifies, as you can see. But mine do not look one bit like the drawing. The inner piece will not “mount” the RS out piece, not while I honour the pattern markings anyway (indicated by three pins):


It seems like these pieces are cut out wrong. But they are not.
It seems like they are placed wrong. But they are not. The top of the inside out piece needs to just touch the upper curve of the larger piece.

Here are the two paper pieces, you can see that the two do not share the same curve at the top. I do not see how these two can be placed like the pattern leaflet says without losing a lot of the RS out piece in piece “11” and thereby construction. Not to mention not following the markings on the paper:

I must be doing something wrong but I have no idea what. This pattern is a good pattern. Why do these pieces not fit logically together?

In the end I decided to be let by my dress. Because “piece 11” did not capture the whole of my neckline I put a piece of fabric in it, to lengthen it. (must have done something wrong at the neckline too, but I doubt it was sewing just besides the sewing line because it was a whopping 4 cm that needed to be added):

I drew a neckline of appropriate length and a curve that captured both pieces of the collar. I “dry sewed” it over and over again to make sure it worked and fitted. When I was sure I understood how this collar is supposed to work I sewed it and trimmed it (with a knot in my stomach, look at how much is discarded):

Sewn together I did have a collar but it might be a different one than the pattern specifies.

Any thoughts on why the paper pieces have such different curves? I’d really like to hear.
I assume I position them wrong but I just cannot figure out how.

UPDATE: someone explained to me that you’re supposed to make the different curves work together. Pretty much like you make a sleeve fit in an armhole even if it doesn’t when lying flat. Pretty much how you make princess seams fit together, even if they don’t lying flat. Sewing is 3D, baby.
Fit them together, stretch the one, curve the other. Pin them and make them fit.
It will result in a collar with enhanced construction that will sit nice.

I will try next time and that time will be soon because today I’m buying fabric for a real Bleuet. I’ll have a change to dance with the collar again soon. I’ll be keeping an eye sideways on the way Sewaholic sewed her collar to make sure I understand all.

Try out Bleuet Dress

FBA on Deer & Doe’s Bleuet Dress

I got the marvellous pattern Bleuet Dress by French independent pattern maker Deer&Doe.
For me it was in need of a full bust adjustment, after I determined that size 40 would sit around my shoulders perfectly.

Bleuet Dress comes in a neat package with the pattern pieces on nice sturdy paper. I was bold and did the FBA right on the paper, thereby destroying the original.

I needed to do a few things:

  1. widen the waist to size 42
  2. slim down the hip to size 40 or even less
  3. shorten the body by 2 cm
  4. lengthen the skirt
  5. enlarge the breast

The first 3 I could do on my own. It all comes down to choosing which cutting line to follow and transit souple between the one for size 40 and for size 42. The shortening is done at the waistline, through all pattern pieces.

After cutting I started by noting the sewing line into the pattern. It has an 1,5 cm seam allowance worked into it and some of it was now altered because my outer lines did no longer follow one size consistently.
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe
After this I shortened the waist.

For the Full Bust Adjustment I first used this tutorial: http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/07/how-to-make-a-full-bust-adjustment/ But I couldn’t get it to work.
I didn’t succeed with this tutorial because I wasn’t able to tell which details were important and which not. For example it wasn’t clear where in the sideseam the cutting line should start and whether it should be at an angle. I just squared it of the side line but that didn’t work.
I ended up with non functional hinges and paper that didn’t want to lie flat:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe
I tried a bunch of things but it just didn’t work.

Having cut up some of the paper I started to worry but the next tutorial I tried had a nice mix of logic and bravery so I undid what I had done and taped everything back together and just kept on taping after that.

Taped everything back the way it was:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

The second tutorial was http://www.idlefancy.com/2014/01/sewing-curve-fba-for-princess-seams.html and this one worked very well for me.

It still looked awfull halfway through:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe
but at least the tutorial says it’s supposed to do so. And to keep confidence and to just “tape all that crazyness down”. So that’s what I did:

FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

and then the tutorial instructs you to do some crazy thing and clearly states it will be counterintu├»tive. Just “draw your own line, because you’re awesome like that”. And I am because look what happened!
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe
Voilá, a FBA.

Only needs a new line at the sideseam from the armhole to the waist, to compensate for the width added to the sideseam.

There. Done.
A bit messy but it’s all there and the paper lies flat:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

Remember to add the added length to the front side piece too and FINI.
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

Here the pieces are all together. Size 40 with size 42 waist, a shortened body and a FBA:
FBA on Bleuet Dress from Deer&Doe

I later made a try out dress and found I needed to round off the apex a bit more. Along the line you can already see in the pattern.
The height of the apex and the width of the pattern pieces is marvellous!