Sewing the Beige Winterbeestjes Shirt 2/2

COLLAR SURGERY because the collar was too wide, its base overlapped at CF.

determine points on stand where you want collar to end: on either side of the button band = 1,25 cm from CF

Plan: open up the collar on the raw edge, fold side inwards and fudge it so the angle of the points is steeper. Preserve the point but make the side come in faster.

collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloescollar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloescollar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes

Attaching collar stand to the bodice, trying to match the new collar width. There’s really not much space in the bodice, with the zipper running so high:
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes
Turned out nice.

Attaching collar to the collar stand. Sure a whole lot of layers in that collar stand. I did a lot of trimming after this photo:
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes

This is how it turned out: collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes
That’s allright. Wearable, breathable. Way better than it was previous, where the neck ended too high and the collar stand overlapped as illustrated by the two red pins:

 

Detail of the sleeve head and the armhole. Why is the sleeve less wide than the bodice?
collar surgery Beige Winterbeestjes bloes

Next time I will finish the arm hole first and then ease in the sleeve. I’ll also amend the sleeve, adjust it for a wider biceps without altering the circumference of the head like this: Sewing sleeve adjustment biceps

Sewing some parts of the Birds in Shoes Shirt.

Collar.

Using this tutorial from Sewaholic. Excellent work and site.
sleeve sleevecap fit shirt arm hole
I used fusible interfacing on this one.

I made the mistake all novice sewers make:
dreint a collar
I clipped too close to the edge and/or used a pointy thing to try and make a nice point.

Next time I’ll employ one of the tricks I found on the web. One is using a surgical clamp to get a good grip on the point before turning it inside out.
The other one is this beauty, from Off the Cuff, a blog about expert shirt sewing by Pamely Emy:

using a temporarily thread to catch the point.

collar point technique by Pamela Emy

Off the Cuff is a great site with expert information on sewing dress shirts. I’m sorry mrs. Emy doesn’t blog anymore, due to health issues I believe. I hope she still sews and has many good days.

My collar point topstitched:
dreint a collar

Sleeves.

I inserted my Crazy Comfortable sleeve pattern. I now think that the reason they actually work so well is because they’re on the bias… not so much because of the crazy pattern (wide flat shoulder cap. I say “flat” but it’s actually concave.) Anyway. Sewed them in. Pressed good. Added a single needle top stitch to secure the seam.

Now pinking the left over edge:
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How are these seams finished on high end dress shirts? Surely not serged/overlocked. Felled seams probably. Ah yes, I’ve found some things on the net, one of them, again, an excellent instruction from the Off the Cuff blog.

I’ve now ordered the book on which Sewaholic based her collar-tutorial was: Shirtmaking: Developing Skills For Fine Sewing by David Page Coffin.

51wyjnjldbl-_sx401_bo1204203200_ I hope to learn much from it.

Zipper placket.
It’s not done, a zipper in a shirt. But my machine can’t make button holes and I don’t like to make them by hand. Not yet anyway. I’m sewing a zipper.

I’ve attached a separate placket for it. Did some folding to get the sequence right. The precise cutting I do was very helpful, I could just lay the edges against each other (“flush”?) and treat them as one.

First I attached the zipper to the front and the placket. Then I folded back the front and the placket and sewed a nice top stitch line. Which wrinkled as I progressed with the needle:

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Because you should always press. Duh.

After pressing it looked better and it sewed much better too:

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You could press the plackets first, to bring some idea of purpose into the band:
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Collar stand.
Upon fitting I saw how awful and weird the button plackets looked as they went up vertical above the zipper. Following the Centre Front line right up. Because that’s where all the buttons were supposed to go in the original pattern. I amended the pattern to not have overlapping plackets. But I didn’t amend it for height and it looks awful with the zipper not closing the gap all the way. (and you don’t want a zipper all the way to the top)

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I also found out that the collar stand I had cut didn’t fit the neck line anymore, it was too short. Don’t know how that happened as I followed the Knip pattern for the neck exactly because I hadn’t learned anything about necklines or collar (stands) yet.

I solved both by folding back the button (zipper) placket. Something else Not Done in sewing. It’s more of a dirty hack than anything else and I’m not proud. But it gets me a front that works and by now this shirt has become a wearable practise shirt so here goes:
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Fold away and topstitch in place. Awful. But functional.
Now I’ve got an acceptable shape at the front edges. (note to self: a next shirt with a zipper needs it to close a bit higher. About 5 cm.)

Now I could attach a collar stand that fits to that, I learned how to draw one at drafting lessons last Monday. No need though because the original collar stand now fits again, if I shape the rounded edges freehand. (Something else that’s going to get me in trouble. Symmetry is very important at this point of the body.)

Todays task is to finish those round edges of the collar stand and perhaps assemble the collar to it. Again using Sewaholic’s tutorials.

dreint a collar

I’ve trimmed the seams on the inside of the collar stand a bit. It was six layers thick and it will receive three more layers from the collar. That’s just too much difference from the single layer of fabric that’s the rest of the shirt.

tackling the Bleuet Dress collar.

Some people have commented that the collar of Bleuet Dress doesn’t make sense to them. The steps of the process seem weird.
To me they seemed fine and they resulted in a good collar.

Try out Bleuet Dress

What did make me wonder is the amount of fabric I had to trim away. And how the two collar pieces do not seem to fit well together.
I put this down to me being an inexperienced collar sewist. Although they were the first thing I studied when I began sewing.

Here’s the collar of my try out Bleuet Dress. I followed the pattern to the letter. The cutting was precise. Interfused lining was used. Seam allowance was notched:
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Here now follows the weird bit.
I’ve laid down the pattern pieces exactly like the pattern specifies, as you can see. But mine do not look one bit like the drawing. The inner piece will not “mount” the RS out piece, not while I honour the pattern markings anyway (indicated by three pins):


It seems like these pieces are cut out wrong. But they are not.
It seems like they are placed wrong. But they are not. The top of the inside out piece needs to just touch the upper curve of the larger piece.

Here are the two paper pieces, you can see that the two do not share the same curve at the top. I do not see how these two can be placed like the pattern leaflet says without losing a lot of the RS out piece in piece “11” and thereby construction. Not to mention not following the markings on the paper:

I must be doing something wrong but I have no idea what. This pattern is a good pattern. Why do these pieces not fit logically together?

In the end I decided to be let by my dress. Because “piece 11” did not capture the whole of my neckline I put a piece of fabric in it, to lengthen it. (must have done something wrong at the neckline too, but I doubt it was sewing just besides the sewing line because it was a whopping 4 cm that needed to be added):

I drew a neckline of appropriate length and a curve that captured both pieces of the collar. I “dry sewed” it over and over again to make sure it worked and fitted. When I was sure I understood how this collar is supposed to work I sewed it and trimmed it (with a knot in my stomach, look at how much is discarded):

Sewn together I did have a collar but it might be a different one than the pattern specifies.

Any thoughts on why the paper pieces have such different curves? I’d really like to hear.
I assume I position them wrong but I just cannot figure out how.

UPDATE: someone explained to me that you’re supposed to make the different curves work together. Pretty much like you make a sleeve fit in an armhole even if it doesn’t when lying flat. Pretty much how you make princess seams fit together, even if they don’t lying flat. Sewing is 3D, baby.
Fit them together, stretch the one, curve the other. Pin them and make them fit.
It will result in a collar with enhanced construction that will sit nice.

I will try next time and that time will be soon because today I’m buying fabric for a real Bleuet. I’ll have a change to dance with the collar again soon. I’ll be keeping an eye sideways on the way Sewaholic sewed her collar to make sure I understand all.

Try out Bleuet Dress