Skirt-Sew-A-Long Inside Number 23 Finished

A self drafted pattern of a skirt with waist band, zipper at the side, lining, and nice deep pockets. Inspired by the Hollyburn skirt by Sewaholic which is used for the sew-a-long by Inside Number 23 in which I participate with this skirt:
selfdrafted skirt pattern sew-a-long Inside Number 23selfdrafted skirt pattern sew-a-long Inside Number 23

Sideview:
selfdrafted skirt pattern sew-a-long Inside Number 23selfdrafted skirt pattern sew-a-long Inside Number 23

It’s a fitted skirt because I have no hips and no bum. No waist either. I do have a belly. And a sway back (curved lower back). I accounted for all of this in the pattern. Straight skirts are most flattering, with a flare at the hem so I can move my legs. The flare is done with godets in this skirt.

Look how much ease for striding these godets give me. I feel victorious!
selfdrafted skirt pattern sew-a-long Inside Number 23

Using the selvedge as the edge was very handy. Less finishing to do.

Now there’s a nice IKEA print just at the front of my skirt. Also: This skirt is lined.
selfdrafted skirt pattern sew-a-long Inside Number 23

I’m very happy with my skirt. It’s made of sturdy canvas so it can stand my way of living. It is in all the right colours that fit my shirts and this grey vest that I just knitted.
The fabric has a bold print and it will disguise the stains I undoubtely will make on it.

And now I have a good pattern from which I can make multiple skirts. The video tutorials Inside Number 23 posted gave me the courage to make this skirt form beginning to end. French seams in the lining. A kind of lapped exposed zipper. Pinked seam allowances in the canvas.
The only thing I didn’t take from the video’s was a level waist band. That’s for next time.
Untitled
I did use the zipper to take away the excess width in the waist band. There’s a hook and bar in the waist band.

Onward to other sewing projects!
selfdrafted skirt pattern sew-a-long Inside Number 23

Skirt-a-long: hem, details, not finished

Hem: catch stitch on the hem which uses the selvedge edge of the fabric, blind stitch on the godets which do not. Great tutorial  showing the different stitches and how to start and end with your thread.

Sewing skirt details Ikea gabric
Sewing skirt details Ikea gabric

On the waistband I didn’t follow Inside Number 23’s tip to match the height of the band on both sides of the zipper. I just had too much going on trying to fit in the zipper and the lining and folding all the waist band pieces neatly. Lapped zipper hiding into the pocket:

Sewing skirt details Ikea gabric
I did give the base of the pocket reinforcement.

The inside:
Sewing skirt details Ikea gabric

The zipper hides the selvedge of both the lining and the fashion fabric in just one go.
I have not yet mastered how to fold in the ends of the waist band neatly while sewing. I attached the band to the skirt first, to allow for fitting, which is a different sequence than Inside Number 23 advised.

This band was too sturdy to work easily, what with the horse braid inside and this stiff canvas. I think this might be a good finish for my future sturdy skirts (which I wear a lot) though: just attach an extra piece on top to hide the edges.

The topstitching of the band didn’t work out so well, unfortunately. I love top stitching. But this one is wonky. Probably because of all the layers and mounting the bulk where the pockets meet the waist band.

Finished!

Put it on!

Sewing skirt: waist band front too wide.

What? waist band too big! how can it be? I fitted before inserting zipper.

back of waist band is 44 cm long, front of band is 47!

91 cm in total. should be 84+wearing ease. Or just 82 at the top.

Pattern pieces are 22 each, 88 in total, and that’s a tad too wide already.

sewn waist band front is 45,5 at the top; 47 at the base.
patternpiece waist band front is 23 (46) at the top; 24,7 (49,4) at the base.

The skirt pattern from which the waist band pattern piece is derived is 22 cm at the top (including a 1 cm dart); 22,8 at the base (including a 1 mm dart)
That’s 42 at the top; 45,4 at the bottom.

The pattern piece is incorrect.
It’s 46 at the top; 49,4 at the base and it should
be 42 at the top; 45,4 at the bottom. That’s 2 x 2 cm too wide. That’s a clue which pattern piece matching just has confirmed.
When making the waist band pattern piece from the skirt pattern and folding away the darts seam allowance was added at the sideseam. But it was already in the skirt pattern.

This is how it should fit:
Sewing skirt: waist band front too wide.

Sideseams are at their proper place, it’s solely the front band that’s too wide.

This is what I have to do to make it look like that:
Sewing skirt: waist band front too wide.

This is how much I need to take out…. that’s a whopping 7 cm.
Sewing skirt: waist band front too wide.

I’m going to see if I can fix it. This zipperside is where the solution has to be since the rest of the waist band is made too sturdy to amend:
Sewing skirt: waist band front too wide.

This is how much needs to go:
Sewing skirt, adjusting wide waist band

It’s doable but it will make the front a-symmetrical:
Sewing skirt, adjusting wide waist band

A-symmetrical but wearable.

Luckily it’s only the front of the waist band. The side seams are at their proper place. So hopefully the only awkwardness will be when I try to put both hands in my pockets and have to stand with a twisted torso. The fabric print will probably distract enough for people to notice the a-symmetry of the pockets. People do not pay attention to that sort of thing anyway.

Skirt-A-Long: waist band and Pippi pincushion

I had a sewing lesson and learned about my preferred waist band: shaped and reinforced with non-iron interlining.
skirt sewalong

For interfacing there’s non-stretching tape which can be laid across the band, in overlapping pieces (yellow band or unconventional stuff like curtain band). Then there’s woven interfacing which can be something like sturdy cotton (twill) or something specifically used in jackets such as horse hair braid. I had never seen it. I like it!

These are my pieces, front and back band:
skirt sewalong

 

cat-help:
skirt sewalong

What’s that in the background?
skirt sewalong
It’s my new pin cushion!
skirt sewalong
From Dangerous Jane on etsy. Very warmly recommended!

attaching the lining to the skirt:
skirt sewalong
Waist bands at the top.

Adding the waist band to the skirt, here is the lower part after grading:
skirt sewalong

Fold and pin and press before sewing. Making sure everything lies neatly.
skirt sewalong

Skirt-a-long: godets and pockets

My skirt started with straight vertical lines:
Hollyburn sew a long. Front panel

This doesn’t leave much room to stretch the legs. My hem needs flaring otherwise I cannot walk comfortably. I’ve found various option on Pinterest and I’ve gone for godets. One in each side seam.

I cut them first and then I thought about an even hem. The Cutting Class showed me that godets need a round bottom to hang even at the hem.

I’ve now moved the godet on the left side so it can have a round hem. I placed the lowest part on the lowest part of the front panel. Were I to sew the right godet as is it would creep up and look weird.

positioning the godet. left one is correct, right one would've too high in relation to the hem of he front panel. A drafted godet has a roundish bottom.

For the pockets I used the wrong sleeves from the Pink Kitty Blouse. One part of the pockets continues across the front panel. I like it that way: an extra layer for warmth and to reduce wrinkling.

The openings are reinforced with a piece of non-stretchy band.
skirt sewalong

 

Skirt-A-Long in IKEA fabric: cutting the panels.

Podcast Inside Number 23 is doing a sew-a-long for a skirt with pockets and a waist band. The main activity is in the Ravelry group.

Today I’m diving in with the self drafted pattern I’ve made over the Summer and with this fabric I bought at IKEA today:
nattslim fabric ikea

I think it’s called “Glimnatt”, “glistening night”. It’s 1 x 1.50 m and a midweight canvas. I prefer their heavier canvas but this print is just beautiful for a winter skirt.

I might line the skirt, if I want it to be a winter garment.

Front panel cut:
Hollyburn sew a long. Front panel

My front and back panel have the same pattern piece. I fold away the waist band (I’m getting a sewing lesson next Monday to learn to properly draft a shaped waist band and reinforce it with non-iron interfacing etc.)

The pocket is also folded away as is the flare in the lower side seam. Both will get made into separate pieces that will be attached later.

I’ve since folded the pocket back to its original place and used the pattern to cut the back. Now I’m about to cut the flares and the pockets. It would be nice if I get to finish the pockets and the sideseams before Monday.