Wriggle Dress: fitting one, two, three

I basted the side seams together on the biggest stitch my machine can do and tried it on.
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The fitting taught me much:

– should try this is size 12 all around, no extra fabric needed at the bust. Even go to 10. Hips at size 8.

– the darts in the back need to be lots more tight, there’s way too much room there.

– the shoulder straps in the back need to be shortened. (They weren’t sewn yet. I attached one to the right front part with a pin. The other had no partner so I pinned it to my bra strap. Very elegant.)

– hand stitched pleats for the right front will look good.

– this is a linnen dress for Summer so a bit of wearing ease will heighten the wearablity

So I did that. Basted it together again and tried it on for the second time. This time I also added the left shoulder part. The sizing was fine now so I focussed on the shoulder part.

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It’s too wide. Even when the armhole will take away some more of the fabric in its seam.

but it looks good with the facing underneath it. Crisp and white.

I folded it in a bit, just to see how it would look off centre. I liked what I saw, it sets off the right shoulder part nicely. It does no longer compete with it.
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seam ripper, yum!

I pinned the shoulders better. I was surprised to see how ‘crooked’ it had to be to be straight on me. Here you see the back part on the right and the front part on the left. The front part already has the facing attached, the back part has it lying under it as I had to make the dart in the back go all the way up to the shoulder seam. Because I have a hunchback. Or perhaps something called ‘a sway back’?
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Anyway, to avoid a big gaping hole between the top of the zipper and my neck I had to fold the backparts outwards. Into a dart. This makes the shoulder seam more narrow which is fine because I wanted to make the left front part more narrow too. I narrowed the left front piece, making sure it attached to the armhole line of size 12 of the pattern.
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See how much I had to alter the angle of the shoulder seam to have it sit straight on me! Hmm. Am I slouching on these pictures??

Anyway: on to fitting nr. 3:
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looks alright! (the noticeable bias on the front view is an optical illusion, I have my hips slainted and my right knee forward, pulling the fabric forward)
The back is better now, not so roomy. Still a bit though…
The back view seems to suggest I carry one shoulder higher than the other. This might well be the case or again, I’m not standing straight up. Will try and notice in the future.

It sits very comfortably. Of which the crinkles are evidence since I wore the dress as is for a bit.
Now I’m ready to take apart this dress one last time. Press it. Use the parts to alter the paper pattern. Use the parts to cut a lining. Then the final sewing will begin. With lots of pressing along the way.

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Summer Dress: Still some finishing left.

Here’s the dress, nearly NEARLY finished:
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Look at the ridiculous darts I had to put in in the front to have the neck line behave.
Still some details to finish: the neckline did not come out symmetrical. Have to adjust it by hand. Still contemplating if I should loosen the lining for that or not.
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Also: when I fastened the lining in the back it made for a nasty thick seam allowance, which I turned upwards as per pattern instructions. It now looks like I’m carrying a sausage around my waist or a lazy cat stretched out. The form fitting against my back is distorted.

So there you are. Still no proper pictures as there are still problems to be solved. I am getting tired of this too so the dress has to take a time out every time I encounter another problem.
But hey, I’ve got the dress here, with me. I’ve found a clothes hanger to hang it on. And my husband is here for another day and he can take a picture, even if I don’t solve the back and the neckline soon. So there will be modelling pictures this weekend!

Summer Dress: altering the neckline

I raised the neckline without tapering it down and now the dress stood agape at my front. So I inserted two darts. They are pretty long but it’s what my fitting told me:
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When I was satisfied with them I inserted them into the lining as well. Now I had to remake the neckline into a coherent line and restitch the lining to the fashion fabric and finish it with understitching.

Stitching lining and fabric together, securing the darts and creating a new fluent neckline:
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Trim the bits and nick the fabric before turning it over:
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turn dress so that I can redo the top stitching: stitch very close to the existing seam securing together the lining and the seam allowance of both lining and fashion fabric:
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result! No picture of it but it looks good. All it needs is a bit of pressing but the new neckline on this half is good.

now the other one: stitch lining and fabric together creating a new fluent line. Looks good from where I was stitching.
but when I flipped it over:
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Unacceptable. For one: it missed one of the nicks that were already in the lining. This would fray with wear, I fear.

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Second: on one side the stitching doesn’t end in the little trench of the existing stitching line. It misses it by a mm:
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This will give a nasty fold. Which will show on the good side as this stitching involves both the lining and the fashion fabric. Unacceptable.
Take it out, please.

Redone:
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Much better!

Perfection even. Look how nice it runs into the existing stitching line:
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Let’s have a look to the other side:
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Merde.
it missed the ‘ear’ of the dart.
Take it out please.

your wish is my command:
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I folded the ‘ear’ the other way and restitched that part:
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Good!

let’s look at the other side:
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Poep.
It messed with the lining, creating a fold. It won’t be visible while wearing but still…

time for some chocolate and a little lay down. This needs to come out and be redone.