First shirt from self drafted pattern from beginnersclass Patroontekenen from Modevakschool Nationaal. Unfortunately sewn in a very slippery cotton which caused a few mistakes in addition to my inexperience with sewing and shirts and collars.
Self drafted pattern: yoke in double fabric, button bands, front facing, sleeve plackets, bust darts swiveled into waist darts at the front. Back darts.
Puckering because of the dent at the natural shoulder seam:
Should have smoothed the dent when putting together front panel and back panel for the yoke. When I do so I should recheck the circumference of the armhole and fit it to the sleeve head.
Front button band looks good. Facings could perhaps be wider to give beter support, Off the Cuff blog is a fan of that. Collar could have a different shape, this is too docile. Should be placed higher up the body too:
CF lies straight. The fabric lies smooth across my upper torso. A good fit.
Caused by swiveling away the little bust dart from armpit to the apex, resulting in a steep arm hole:
It sits nice on the body though, so I opt for adjusting the sleeve head, not the arm hole.
This much additional fabric is needed at the sleeve. This will distort the smooth look of the sleeve which is a ladies’ sleeve, not a typical shirt sleeve:
Side seam is straight. But way too much fabric at the back. I have a short torso and a sway back. A petite frame:
I will address this in the next shirt, the Beige Winterbeestjes, by having two princess seams at the back. A better solution would be a Centre Back seam that’s not a straight line. My teacher has a sway back too and all her fitted patterns need a CB seam and it isn’t straight. This may be the case with me too. But because of the slippery fabric I cannot yet say how much is sewist error in this shirt. There shouldn’t be any faults in the pattern because this is a tailormade pattern drafted to my specific measurements.
Either way I plan to explore my sway back more with other things such as a yoke at the small of my back or a bow like the Deer&Doe dress has. It’s one of my key features and it could be emphasized, I feel.
Too much fabric in the lower half. Ugly dart endings. Should also be solved by making them into princess seams, going into the back yoke.
The yoke works nicely: good shape, well fitted. The sideseam could have way more shaping. Something to check out in the next dress shirt, which will be of a better fabric and will have front shaping done at the end, while fitting the shirt. Then we’ll know whether the side seam needs additional shaping too. For now it could be caused by just the slippery fabric, not the pattern.
Changes made to the dress shirt pattern because of this fitting:
- made front neck a little bit higher: 1,5 – 2 cm
- adjusted collar/stand accordingly. New front length is 10,5 instead of 11,5 cm. Change collar shape altogether, I misunderstood at the course. Teacher drew me a new one, using that one. Could have drafted a new one myself using EmmaMakesPatterns.com tutorial
- placing the end points of the waist darts lower at front panel. They are at apex line now. Mistake.
- the vertical darts at the back panel are changed to princess seams. Still working on accommodating the sway and short back. This will need different pattern adjustments.
- The sleeve head front needs additional fabric. In the market-cotton-version I cut open the seam and placed a piece of fabric behind to find out what and how.
- The armhole has a ridiculous curve in it at the front but I’m preserving it.
- lessen the dent in the top of the armhole, it’s in the yoke piece at the natural shoulder seam. It caused puckering of the sleeve top.
- Undo additional width at side seam at the armhole. Put there to approach the length of the sleeve head better but it’s no good.
- Lower sleeve head to approach circumference of arm hole.
- make sleeve cuff less wide. It needs about 6 cm overlap now to fit my wrist. Make sleeve placket longer to accommodate this broader overlap.
- draft a horizontal feature at the lower back to hide/take away the extra fabric my short back doesn’t need. A “half-belt” kind of yoke. Or the bow the Deer & Doe has. Or that feature of the pink blouse at my class.
- use stretch fabric
PS this nice tutorial just landed in my inbox: 3 ways to adjust for sway back! by InhousePatterns.com