Princess seams in front and back. A pleated fanshaped vent in the back, two in fact in each of the princess seams.
Straight front panel with handspun silk detail which returns in the patch pocket.
details of sewing:
The princess seam at the side front panel does not match the straight front panel. I sew a shape into the front panel and it doesn’t show in the finished project. Will amend pattern:
Reinforcing the front top with unstretable band:
Treating the seam allowances: stitch, trim so they are neat, fold under, press, sew:
Clip at ridiculous curvy bits:
Armholes are finished with biais band. Pin in place
Stitch (from the RS, right in the fold):
Clip and trim:
Redo parts that looked wonky from the RS. The curve in the armhole is very steep, it’s difficult to sew without catching some fabric here or there. Note how the band is folded at the start, this will fold inside neatly:
Baste in place. I used my machine with a long stitch and low foot pressure:
Pick with the hand. At the steep curve I have to bring the stitches closer to the edge, all the way to the basting line. The biais band just won’t stretch enough to let the fabric lie flat.
Pocket: treat top first, then use a carton mold to press the shape around (using a gathering stitch):
I added a detail with handspun Mulberry silk. Also to sew the folded under top in place and to prevent stretching. This edge was not reinforced with non-stretching tape or band:
NOTES:
a few tweaks to the pattern of the green flowery wriggle dress:
– make front panel straight. 19 cm from top to bottom. This means:
– subtract 2 cm from the side panel princess seams. This gives too much curve at the waist line. The fabric won’t be able to attend to it. I middle the curve with the front panel:
– at the waist line of the front panel there’s a slight shaping of 0,5 cm.
– it needs 2 x 0,5 cm more room at the apex. Given this at the sideseams.
– vent at the back princess seams, not at the side seams.
– lower the back neck line. It creases on the back torso in the green dress, even after we took out some of the length.
– pockets….
Furthermore:
– handpicked binding at the arm hole and neck line.
– stay tape at the top of the front panel
– the arm hole is good. Good as a base for a dress shirt. Nice and close to the body, giving maximum range of motion.
The idea is that this too will be a try out dress. To get to the perfect basic dress pattern.
SEWING:
– treated seam allowances by folding them under and stitching. They were too scratchy if I’d overlocked them or sewn a zigzag. Looking forward to giving this pattern a lining.
– bias band at the armholes, unstretchable tape at the front and the neck line
– patch pocket, using <a href=”http://inseamstudios.com/sew-patch-pocket/”>this tutorial from inseamstudios</a> and https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/465418942732862681/<a href=”https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/465418942732862681/”>this tutorial</a>
– handsewn details at front panel and pocket, from handspun mulberry silk.
Conclusions after sewing:
– armhole curves too steep  for bias binding, this shape benefits from facing. Teacher says to deepen the hole for future dresses. I’m holding hope that a sleeve will fit in there. (but now I see my previous shirts in my minds eye and I know that that’s probably not the case.)
– after wearing it a while I can say that upper legs have enough space for free movement. This is good.
– use same pattern pieces for a (medium weight) tricot/ jersey. Sew same pattern pieces with 1 cm SA instead of 1,5 cm for wovens plus lining. And a long sleeve? Would be ideal for winter.
– ease the curve at the back, towards the shoulder seam, a bit.
BumbleSews 