Finished: linen skirt with pockets and godets.

All the linen was handdyed, with indigo, by Lieneke from Wolop Wool Studio. I used shibori techniques to make the patterns.

Nice pockets and shaped waist band:

Yoke and princess lines to serve my sway back:

Making the front panel with the pockets. Seen from the WS:

I took the pattern from the lilac linen trousers (haven’t shown it yet. It’s a remake of these failed trousers which I took to my first sewing lessons and my teacher rescued them) and converted it: – deepened the pockets. I want 7 cm deep from where the lower opening hits the side seam. – took in front by 3 cm (twice) with darts which I folded away, opening up the bottom and giving it a flare. – took in CB by 0,5 cm (twice) but only in the waistband. – cut backpanel in two and flared the bottom, just like the lowest panel on this picture:

Cut precise.

Pattern pieces:

1. front panel
2. pocket top side (2)
3. pocket under side (2)
4. back panel (2)
5. side panel back (2)
6. zip protector
7. waist band front (2)
8. waist band back (2)
9. yoke back (2)
10. zipper
11. interfacing for waist band

Thinking about interfacing waist band, I’m no hero with iron on interfacing…

sequence:

1. 1. press non stretch band (naadband) onto pocket inside 1,5 cm from the edge (middle of seam)
   2. pin inside pocket onto front-panel, RS together. Sew over naadband, fold, press, topstitch.
   3. attach underside pocket onto innerpocket. sew to inner pocket, treat raw edge. Secure top onto front panel and make sure the top line does not shift.
   4. sew back panels together, press, topstitch, treat raw edge.
   5. sandwich back panel in between yokes. Sew, press, grade seams (keep outer seam the longest because of the top stitching), take triangles out of the longest seam. Topstitch the yoke.
   6. sew the long side seams. Start under where the zipper will be. Fit as is, inside out. Make adjustments if needed.
   7. Reinforce where the pocket opening meets the side seam. Insert zipper. Treat raw seam edges. Topstitch.
   8. give waist bands interfacing. I added plain weave cotton and ran my machine over it in a zig zag fashion. attach inner of waist band to front and back panels. Or perhaps first make one continuous button band (close side seams) and try to fit it to the panels.

   Cutting the godets:

   Fortifying the yoke with unstretchable band. I chose a particular nice piece of linen for the yoke. It was shibori dyed with indigo in a wood grain pattern called Mokume shibori:
   

    

2. Grading the inside of the yoke:  
3. Pockets are part of one continuous piece to strengthen the horizontal part of the skirt, as to prevent dragging across the pockets from side seam to side seam: Part of this fabric will be visible from the right side, right at the pocket openings:
4. Here I should have seen what became apparent when the skirt was finished the first time: it’s see through. I had to take the skirt apart and add a lining. These are two white pieces I added to the front to prevent see through:  
5. All in all a very nice skirt, from my own fabric. And another base pattern to use again and again. I have already altered this pattern to a version with flaring back panels instead of godets.

Do have to find a solution for waist bands though. I just cannot marry non-fusible interfacing with a shaped waist band AND understand the sequence of montage.